Балчик-Кая
Route Description: Новогодний
SSummitMateA new rock climbing route, category 5A, "Novogodniy" (New Year), to the summit of Balchik-Kaya, climbed in December 2013 by a team led by Lavrynenko A.
Balchik-Kaya — 5A "Novogodniy" (New Year)
Massif: Balchik-Kaya Complexity: 5A Author: Lavrinenko A Year of route creation: 2013
Length: 205 m Time to complete: 12 hours
1. Crimea, South Coast
- Balchik-Kaya 810 m "Novogodniy"
- Proposed — 5A category
- Route type: rock climbing
- Elevation gain: 170 m; Route length: 205 m.
Route Description: Золотая осень
SSummitMateA new route of the 4th category of difficulty "Zolotaya osen" (Golden Autumn) to the Balchik-Kaya peak, laid in 2013, includes difficult climbing and traverse sections using various technical techniques.
Balchik-Kaya — 4. "Golden Autumn"
Massif: Balchik-Kaya Authors: A. Shelkhakov, S. Bogoslovskaya
Year of route creation: 2013
Route description:
- R0–R1 35 m. Anchor station in a large mulde. III
- R1–R2 traverse 15 m V. Friends, nuts. Station — bush + belay anchor
- R2–R3 (left) chimney 35 m VI. Nuts, friends. Station — 2 anchors + 1 friend R3–R4 55 m. Grassy crack, lots of pitons. VIA1. Station — 2 anchors + friend. R4–R5 20 m.
Route Description: Беатриче
SSummitMateNew route 5A category of complexity "Beatrice" to the summit of Balchik-Kaya, first ascent by O. Popov and M. Kashirsky in 2012.
Balchik-Kaya — 2. “Beatrice”
Massif: Balchik-Kaya. Grade: 5A. Authors: O. Popov, M. Kashirsky
Year of route creation: 2012. Route description:
- R0–R1 40 m. Over simple and moderately difficult terrain along the ridge, then reach the ridge. 40 m III
R1–R2 50 m. Up the complex wall, then over simpler terrain reach a grassy ledge, from the ledge up to a tree.
- 5 m V
- 5 m IV
- 40 m II R2–R3 55 m. Up and left, approach a crack turning into an inside corner. Up the crack, then the corner. Station under a cornice.
Route Description: Алигьери
SSummitMateThe new "Alighieri" route, category 4B, to the summit of Balchik-Kaya, 240 meters long, with a detailed description of the six pitches.
Balchik-Kaya — 3. "Alighieri"
Massif: Balchik-Kaya Difficulty: 4B Authors: Lavrinenko A., Maksimenko S. Year of creation: 2013 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 240 m Route description: Wall height difference is 180 m. Route length is 230–240 m. The wall is quite monolithic.
R0–R1: 55 m. Up to the right, over easy terrain, reach an inclined grassy ledge (20 m II). Along the ledge leftwards and upwards, then via an easy inner corner (5 m II) up and leftwards to a second ledge. Along the ledge and easy terrain, leftwards and upwards towards a small deciduous tree. Belay station on the tree and on personal anchors.
R1–R2: 40 m. Upwards via a steep inner corner (10 m V). Further, the corner gradually eases, exit onto a ledge, then towards a pine tree (20 m IV, III). From the pine tree upwards and rightwards, via a slab, reach a small tree (10 m). Belay station on personal anchors.
R2–R3: 27 m. Upwards via a system of inner corners. The corners are overgrown with grass, some "hollow-sounding" blocks are encountered. Belay station before a small overhang on personal anchors (piton, placements). V+A1
R3–R4: 30 m.
- Upwards, circumvent the overhang via a right-hand gap (10 m V)
- Exit onto a gentler slope, further upwards towards an inner corner, then via the corner (15 m VA1); a huge "hollow-sounding" slab is on the right
- Exit onto an inclined grassy ledge