65. Karagoy via the South Ridge The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 73). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 300 m, time — 3.5–4 hours. The approach from the Kyrgyz-Ata alpine camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac in the Djeljilga gorge, at the entrance to the lateral Ruchyeva cirque — see route 14. From the initial bivouac:

• Turn right and ascend via the right-bank moraine into the Ruchyeva cirque.
• Continue ascending via the right-bank moraine and, after passing the slopes of the LVO peak, approach the saddle of the Karagoy Pass.
• From the cirque — 250–300 m ascent to the right of the Eastern counterfort of the Northern ridge of the Big Ruchyeva peak with a triangular base, along a 30–35° slope composed of small and medium talus, transitioning into multiple couloirs in the central and upper parts.
• Ascend via the middle couloir to the Karagoy Pass. From the initial bivouac — 2–2.5 hours. The approach to the Karagoy Pass from the Suichikty gorge:
• From the alpine camp, ascend via the left-bank road of the Suichikty river to the kurgan, then to the ruined stone house of geologists.

5.15. 16 23

Ascent Log

Ascent type: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge Peak: Karagoy Height: 4234 m Ascent route: from Suychikty valley via NE ridge Suggested difficulty category: 2A

Route Characteristics