Dynamo

Traverse of Dinamovets - Dzhamalaktau peaks, 3A cat. grade, 13 hours, from Severny TEU glacier to the camp.

Traverse of the Dinamovets - Dzhamalaktau peaks, 3A category of difficulty route (see fig. 18). The route to the Dinamovets peak is described in the section on ascending the Dinamovets peak from the southwest. From the Dinamovets peak, descend along the northern ridge, bypassing the subpeak on the left. Further, along a 250 m long snow-ice slope. In the lower part, the slope steepness is 50-55°. This section is prone to avalanches and ends with a sharp ridge with steep slope drops. Traverse this ridge. In the middle part of the ridge, there is a gendarme. Cornices are present. Ascend and descend the gendarme via the frozen rocks. Further, a rocky ridge with gendarmes is traversed; the first one is bypassed, while the second one is taken head-on via a ledge with a deviation to the right. Exit onto a snow area. Traverse a snowy ridge, bypassing a gendarme via a ledge on the right. Transition from the ledge to the slope, bypassing the outer corner, is challenging. The next gendarme is bypassed on the right. Exit onto the Tumanny pass. Overnight stay is possible here. The ascent to Dzhamalaktau begins with a small snowy couloir leading to a snowy saddle. Then, traverse a destroyed rocky ridge. Encountered gendarmes are bypassed on the left; the last one is taken head-on via an inner corner. Exit onto the summit via a couloir with snow and talus. Descend from the summit towards the Solnechny pass via destroyed rocks, then via a couloir with regelation ice, up to 100 m long. From the couloir, exit onto a ridge with a gendarme, which is taken on the left. Further: Descend along a snow-ice slope to easy rocks Traverse a snow-ice couloir Move along easy rocks to the Solnechny pass saddle. From the Solnechny pass, descend along snow and talus to the Solnechny glacier. Traverse the left side to the prospectors' hut, and from it, follow the trail to the camp. The entire traverse takes up to 13 hours. Recommendations for Climbers

Ascent to the summit via the South-West route, category 1B, through the Shokal'sky Glacier and the ridge with gendarmes.

Ascent from the southwest, route 1Б cat. difficulty From Zelyonaya polyana further along the moraine to the confluence of two streams flowing from the Shokalsky Glacier. Here it is convenient to cross to the left bank. Then to the tongue of the Severny TEU glacier. Here on the moraine by the lake is also a convenient place to spend the night. Height 3500 m. From the camp to this overnight stay 4–5 hours walking. The ascent begins along a wide couloir with a slope of up to 35°, covered with small scree. After an hour and a half of ascent, the couloir narrows and turns east, leading to a false summit. Further - along the ridge with many gendarmes. Insurance is alternate. Gendarmes are bypassed on the right, and the last two are taken head-on. Along the ridge, reach the pre-summit couloirs. Cross two couloirs and ascend the third to the snowy ridge and along it to the clearly defined summit. Descent is by the ascent route. Recommendations for climbers Number of participants - no more than 25 people. Initial bivouac - on Zelyonaya polyana or by the lake on the Severny TEU glacier. Departure from the initial bivouac at 5 and 6 am respectively. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main ropes 2 × 30 m; b) rock pitons 2 pcs.; c) carabiners 2 pcs.; d) hammers 2 pcs.

Description of the route category 1B to the Dynamo­vets peak via the northern slope in Trans-Ili Alatau, the ascent takes 7-8 hours.

Ascent via the northern slope. Ascent from the southwest. Traverse of the Dynamovets — Dzhamalaktau peaks. Ascent via the northern slope, Category 1B route. The Dynamovets peak is located in the New spur of the Trans-Ili Alatau in the ridge, which is a watershed between the rivers Sredniy Talgar and Bolshoy Klyuch. The path to the summit: From the Talgar alpinist camp Up the trail through the gorge To the "Zelyonaya polyana" (Green Glade) bivouac site.

Traverse of the summits Jalamaktau — Dinamovets, cat. 3B, 13-14 h, avalanche area, pitons, careful belay.

Тraverse of the Jамalaktau — Dinamovets peaks, 3B cat. route. The approaches and the route to the Jамalaktau peak are described in the section on ascents to this peak. From the Jамalaktau peak, the descent goes down a couloir with snow and talus and leads to a destroyed ridge running in a southerly direction. At the point where the ridge turns southwest-southwest, descend from the last gendarme via an internal corner. Hook insurance required. Further along the destroyed ridge, the gendarmes are bypassed on the right. Behind the ridge is a snowy isthmus, to the left are rock formations resembling towers. Descent via a small couloir to the Tumanny Pass. Stick to the left rocks. The pass elevation is 3700 m. A convenient place to spend the night. From the peak to the pass takes 2.5–3 hours.