Gulba
Route Description: с л. Гуль
SSummitMateCategory 1B route to the summit of Gulba via the North-western ridge, duration 6-8 hours from the Gulskie ground.
275. Ascent via the Northwest Ridge (rock route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie ploshchadki (point 249) on the right side of the Gul glacier, having passed the peak Gulba, turn right and ascend a snowy slope, then traverse easy, crumbling rocks in a couloir to reach the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Gulba peak. At the saddle, turn right and follow the Northwest Ridge to arrive beneath the first gendarme. Overcome it directly via simple rocks ("live" rocks, belay). Continue on simple, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge; tackle the second and third gendarmes directly (belay). Beyond them, follow the gentle, easy, crumbling rocks of the Northwest Ridge, with some ups and downs in the middle section, to reach the summit of Gulba. 6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.
Route Description: В гребню
SSummitMateDescription of route 276 via the South-Eastern ridge of Gulba peak (3A cat.), a rock climbing route with traversing of gendarmes and challenging rock sections.
276. Ascent via the Southeast Ridge (rocky route, V. Logvinova, category III,
fig. 32, 39). From the Gulskie Ploshchadki (point 249), follow the glacier to the
snow patch descending from the deepest saddle of the Southeast Ridge of
Gульба peak. Here, turn right and along the left side of the snowy slope,
alongside the rocks of the Southwest counterfort, approach the
saddle. Before reaching the saddle, turn left and ascend the snowy slope, then a
simple rocky couloir for 150–200 m to a connecting ridge left and above the
first gendarme of the Southeast Ridge of Gульба peak.
From the connecting ridge, turn left and ascend steep, heavily fragmented rocks
Description of the ascent route to the summit of the mountain with a detailed analysis of technical features and ascent tactics.
Fig. 39.
Route Description: правому кф. В стены
SSummitMateAscent of the "Vaksan" USAB team to the summit of [Gulb](<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gul_(mountain)>) via the right counterfort of the East face, cat. 5B, carried out in 1986.
CAUCASUS CHAMPIONSHIP 1986
Rock Climbing Class
Via the right buttress of the East wall
First Ascent
Category 5B difficulty (approximate)
USAB "Baksan" Team
Route Description: правому кф. В стены
SSummitMateAscent to the Eastern wall of the mountain in the Central Caucasus via the right counterfort, category 5 difficulty, first ascent in 1986.
Passport
I. Technical class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Ascent via the right buttress of the East wall. 4. Proposed - 5th category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 910 m, length - 1275 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 415 m. Average steepness of the main sections 54° (2900-3810 m). Including 155 m (83°) of 6th category of difficulty; 6. Pitons hammered: rock hatchet pitons ice 89/7 none 49/0 0/0