Pik Schewtschenko

Fig. 5 11. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), approach the talus, possibly snow-covered slopes descending west from the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From here, ascend via:

• snow-covered talus,
• a snowy slope,
• simple, sometimes steep, heavily damaged rocks with small walls of the Western counterfort of the North Ridge,
• a snowy slope (possible rockfall, insurance) — to the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 3-4 hours. Here, turn right and along the heavily damaged, long, simple snow-covered rocky North Ridge (insurance), then along the snowy ridge and a 150-meter ice-snow ascent, climb to the North Tower. From the North Tower, a 45-50 m ascent on simple blocky rocks leads to Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 6-8 hours.

Fig. 5 13. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the South Ridge (combined route by A. Toporenko, category III difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–8 people):

• ascend along the crest of the left-bank moraine through the gorge to its end, where you exit to the right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier
• on the left side of the glacier, then along the slope of its northeastern branch, approach the ice-and-snow couloir descending on the left side of the south ridge of

Fig. 5 12. Peak Shevchenko 9416 m via the Northwest Ridge (A. Zyuzin's route, combined, 3B category of difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4–5 people), ascend along the ridge of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the base of the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. Here, turn left and ascend along the scree to the left of the Northwest Ridge of the peak to a wide, steep snow-ice couloir descending from the Northwest Ridge of the peak. From here:

• ascend to the right along the scree,
• then along the steep snow-ice slope on the left side of this couloir for 150–200 m under the wall (possible rockfall — piton belay). Then, ascend along a small, heavily broken, moderately difficult rock wall to reach the Northwest Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. On the ridge, turn left and ascend along simple and moderately difficult broken rocks of the Northwest Ridge. Overcome the I and II gendarmes head-on along moderately difficult rocks, the III — along a chimney and rocks above moderate difficulty of the wall (piton belay) with a 20 m rappel, and from it to a ledge under the IV gendarme. Bypass the IV and V gendarmes on the right along shelves, and then reach a platform on the Northwest Ridge.