Ascent Log

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent area: Tien Shan, Terskey Ala-Too range. 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Ayuter, 4382 m, via the Southeast wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 720 m, average steepness — 57°. Section lengths: III — 460 m, IV — 360 m, V — 40 m. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay, for creating belay stations: rock II, ice —, bolted —.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PEAK AYUTER (4382 m) FROM PRIZYVNIC PASS. MOSCOW — 1969.

Description

of the ascent to peak Ayuter from Prizyvnik pass. Peak Ayuter is the main summit of the Ayuter gorge, located in the meridional spur of the Terskey Ala-Too ridge (see orographic scheme) and closes the Ayuter gorge. Peak Ayuter, like all the surrounding peaks, is composed of granites, which are enriched with feldspars in many places. Currently, there are three classified routes to peak Ayuter:

• 3B — along the north-eastern ridge;
• 4A — along the western edge;

ASCENT to the summit of PIK AYUTER via the eastern slope BelSoviet DSO "Zenit" Pik Ayuter via the eastern slope, category 5A complexity (first ascent)

ROUTE AND ASCENT DESCRIPTION

From the base camp on the right bank of the Ontor River, cross to the left bank and move downstream along the Karakol valley until the Ayutor River meets the Ontor River. Then follow the trail upstream along the Ayutor valley to the lake. The journey from the camp takes 3 hours. From the overnight stay near the lake, we move along the moraine to the glacier tongue (the moraine is on the right, orographically). It takes 1.5 hours from the overnight stay. We approach the glacier tongue from the right (orographically) side along the edge of the moraine and the glacier. Then, in teams, we move to the central part of the glacier (60 m, 55°, section R0–R1). Teams move independently; partners take turns leading, using front points of crampons and ice screw protection. 4 ice screws were used. Then we move up to the right, leaving the icefall on the left (200 m, 45–50°, section R1–R2). Protection is used. 8 ice screws were used. Teams move independently; partners take turns leading.

2. Area — Ayuter gorge, Central Tien Shan
3. Peak — Ayuter peak via the Eastern slope
4. Difficulty category — approximate
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, length of complex sections 600 m, average slope 60–65°
6. Pitons hammered in — for belay: rock — 15
   ice — 28
7. Number of climbing hours — 12
8. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification