Альпинист

Peak5,462 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route to Peak Alpinist via the Western Ridge in Tian Shan, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed description of the path and technical features.

Passport

  1. Technical category
  2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
  3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
  4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
  5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
  6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16
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Technical description of a 5A category route to Pik Alpinist (5492 m) via the north ridge in Kokshe-Tau, Tian Shan.

  1. Class: technical.
  2. Tian-Shan, Kokshaal-Tau.
  3. Pik Alpinist, (5492 m) via S ridge.
  4. Proposed category: 5A, combined.
  5. Height difference: 1450 m, length: 2700 m. Average steepness of the rocky part is 45 degrees, snow and ice part is 30 degrees.
  6. Pitons driven:
  7. Climbing hours: 40 and days: 2.
  8. Overnight stay: on the ridge.
  9. Leader: Alexis Deschamps.
  10. Participants:
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### Technical Wall Ascent on Peak Alpinist in Western Kokshaal-Too, Tian Shan Description of the ascent via the center of the northeast wall, category 6B difficulty.

Passport

  1. Category — technical.
  2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau.
  3. Peak Alpinist via the center of the NE wall.
  4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent.
  5. Elevation gain 1219 m. Distance 1648 m. Distance of sections with 5–6B category: 792 m, of which 415 m are category 6B. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4270–4930 m) is 70°.
  6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nuts, ice: 52/5, 0/0, 88/12, 24/0.
  7. Team's total time: 45 hours and 5 days.
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