Pogrebetskogo — Lokomotiv 2A cat. cl. traverse

Route description.

From the initial bivouac on the Morain of Molodezhny Glacier, exit onto Tuyuksu Glacier and move along its middle part. Having passed the glacier drop and the massif of Tuyuksu peak, turn left towards the large stones lying at the foot of the ridge of Tuyuksu peak. Climb to Tuyuksu Pass and move along the ridge to the peak. Descent:

• Down the snowy, not steep slopes, sometimes on talus — to the lowering between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv.
• Bypass a number of gendarmes on the left along the rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

• Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
• Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
• Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
• Step cutting
• Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Lokomotivets (4182 m)

Ascent from the Pereval Druzhby – Cat. II

The Lokomotivets peak is located southeast of the Pereval Druzhby in the ridge that divides the lateral valleys of the Almaty and Kokolbulak rivers in the Chon-Kemin river basin, south of the watershed ridge. The path from the initial bivouac to the Pereval Druzhby is described in the route to the Promezhutochnaya peak. From the pass, go in a southeast direction along the steep ridge, which is snowy in the initial part and then rocky. The ridge leads to the summit. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7–8 hours. The first ascent to the summit was made in 1949 by a group of climbers from the Tuyuksu camp of the Lokomotiv sports society from the southern side under the leadership of S. Trukhanov. The first ascent via the described route was made in May 1954 by Almaty climbers consisting of:

• A. Andreev
• E. Denisenko
• V. Kaigorodova
• Ya. Markushin
• A. Musaev