Ascent Passport

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), via the Western slope couloir and the Northern ridge
3. Category 2A difficulty level
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 1110 m Route length — 2255 m Length of sections: Category V difficulty — none Average steepness:

• main part of the route (sections 8–10) — 55 degrees

Ushbas - Abay Kunanbaev, 45. Traverse of 3 peaks. M. Bryksin, 1958 October 18-22 Group's route

I. Orography

The North-West ridge departs from the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the area of Iiyintau. Three peaks rise above the strongly torn ridge crest:

• 1st Nameless "Treзубец" 4150 m above sea level
• 2nd Nameless "False peak" 4250 m above sea level
• Abay Kunanbaev 4440 m above sea level

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Abaya, 1B category via North-West ridge

Route description.

A good trail leads from Tuyuksu alpine camp eastwards through an ancient moraine and further to the spring. From the spring one should head to the moraine along medium and large talus to Abaya glacier. R0 point. From here the path to the summit passes along the glacier to the foot of the summit. Further:

• Turn towards North-West ridge.
• Ascend to the ridge along talus and snow to a characteristic saddle.
• From the saddle follow a combined ridge with alternating belay to the foot of the summit tower.
• Traverse the tower along the path on the left, on snow, to the North-East ridge.
• Further, along the loose rocks with alternating belay on the eastern side —

ASCENT LOG

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), South Ridge
3. Cat. 1B diff.
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 70 m. Route length — 550 m. Length of sections: Cat. V diff. — none. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections R9–R11, R16) — 75°
   • entire route — 30°

Route Description

The approach to the route is from the middle part of the Malo-Almatinsky gorge. Turn from the "Vорота Tuyuk-Su" alpine camp into the Chertovo gorge and organize the initial bivouac among the ancient moraine ridges. The ascent begins on the right lateral moraine. Reach the Abay glacier, traverse it towards the rocks. At the foot of the rocks, organize rope teams. Further ascent is from the left side of the rock massif on snow. The slope steepness is not more than 25–30°. After 60–70 m, there is a passage in the rocks, through which you can cross to the right side of the rock massif. Here, the steepness of the snow slope increases to 35–40°, and the ascent goes straight up to the foot of the summit rock tower. This section (450–500 m) is overcome with thorough belaying. The ascent and descent on it must be done before the sun illuminates the slope and softens the snow. Upon reaching the foot of the tower, turn north and after 30–40 m of easy rock climbing, approach a couloir with a steepness of 35–40°. At the end of the season, it can be icy, and step cutting is necessary. After 25–30 m, turn left towards the rocks and ascend to the tower of the north summit with thorough belaying. This is the main summit of Peak Abay. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 6–7 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not more than 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine of the Abay glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 4 am.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people: