Москва Зеравшанская, Восточная

Peak5,046 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
0

Guidelines and clarifications for the "Red Dot" route along the East Ridge, categorized as 3-5 difficulty level, including a description of the path, overnight stays, and ascent time calculation.

Recommendations and clarifications for ascending to the summit RED POINT via the East Ridge — 3–5 cat. difficulty. 0. The ascent to the ridge at the point of its significant lowering via snow ledges is clearly visible from below at the start of the route.

  1. The slab in front of the grey pillar is bypassed on the left via a ledge-crevasse.
  2. When bypassing the grey pillar on the right, it was necessary to cut 2–3 steps in the snow-ice slope.
  3. A good platform /in the form of a practically horizontal slab on the ridge/ for overnight stay is available 30–45 minutes before reaching the grey pillar.
  4. It's best to pass the gully with a plug in its upper part without backpacks.
0
0

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Moskva (5183 m) in the Fann Mountains via the north wall through the hanging glacier, difficulty category 6B.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class — Technical 2. Ascent Region — Fan Mountains 3. Peak — Moskva, 5183 m via the north wall through the hanging glacier 4. Anticipated Difficulty Category — 6B 5. Route Description: Total height difference — 1480 m. Characteristics of the wall section (rock and ice): height difference — 1290 m, including 131 m of ice wall, length — total — 1474 m, including 142 m of ice, sections of category V difficulty — 462 m, " — 15 m, category VI difficulty — 484 m, " — 95 m. Average steepness of the wall — 76°, including the lower

0
0

Ascent to the top of Moskva-Zeravshan via North-East wall, first ascent, category 5B difficulty, 1981.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical.
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
  3. Summit, its height, ascent route — Moscow-Zerafshanskaya peak, 5183 m, via the NNE wall, first ascent.
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B category.
  5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 1383 m. elevation gain of the wall section — 1250 m. total route length — 2400 m. wall section length — 1530 m.
0
0