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Ascent to Shlem Peak (from the west), 4A cat. diff.

The ascent to the summit is made from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siam River. From the camp, you should follow the left bank of Siamy, initially along the moraines with a sharp gain in height, and then, turning to the right, enter the circus of the B. Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Shlem and Medvezhiy Zamok. The ascent to the saddle (the lowest point of the ridge) is carried out along the talus and snow. There is a control cairn on the saddle. From the saddle, go along the talus on the right to a poorly defined ridge and along the slabs to a wall 4 m high and 10–12 m wide. The wall is overcome in its right part. The belay is hooked, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which you can move to its end to the left under the next wall 2 m high. After overcoming the last one, cross the couloir along the ledge and reach the inclined slabs of the ridge. Move along the ridge with alternate belay for about 100 m to the lowering in the ridge. Descend into the failure on a rope. Further movement along the left side of the ridge along the slabs. The belay is hooked. After 100–120 m, reach the saddle under the wall of the summit. The height of the wall is about 100 m. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are passed vertically upwards. The rocks are difficult. It is recommended to move in rubber shoes. Then, along the ledges, go up to the left to the base of the cleft, along which the rest of the wall is overcome. At the top, the cleft ends with a wide (10–15 m) ledge with talus, where water flows on the left. On the entire wall, the belay is hooked. From the ledge, go up to the right along a wide cleft (in the lower part of the chimney). The belay is hooked. The cleft leads to inclined slabs with talus of the summit dome. Along the slabs to the summit — 150 m.

8. Шлем from the south, route 4A category, fig. 4.

From the base camp (no later than 4 hours) up Siamese by moraines, and then, turning right, exit to the circus of the Bolshoy Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Шлем and Медвежий Замок. Ascend to the saddle over scree and snow. Control tour. From the saddle over scree on the right, exit to an indistinct ridge and over slabs to a wall 4 m high and up to 12 m wide. The wall is overcome on its right part. Piton belay, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which go to its end on the left under the next wall 2 m high. Behind the wall, cross the couloir along the ledge and exit onto inclined slabs of the ridge. Fig. 4. Move along the ridge for about 100 m with alternating belay until the ridge dips. Descend into the dip on a rope. Further movement is on the left side of the ridge over slabs. After 100–120 m, exit to a saddle under the summit wall. The wall is about 100 m high. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are climbed vertically upwards. The rock is difficult. Then move left and up along ledges to the base of a cleft, which is used to overcome the rest of the wall. At the top, the cleft leads to a wide (10–15 m) ledge with scree. On the entire wall, the belay is piton. From the ledge, move right and up a wide cleft (in the lower part, a chimney). The cleft leads to inclined slabs and scree of the summit dome. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. On the wall, re-rope and pull out the rope. The ascent takes 12–14 hours.

Conclusions

1. The ascent to the summit of Shlem via the western wall to the northern ridge is a rock climbing route of category 4B difficulty.
2. The total height difference: glacier — Shlem summit — 450 m.
3. The height of the western wall of the northern ridge — 200 m.
4. The average steepness of the wall — 70°.
5. The number of rock pitons hammered into the wall — 25.
6. The group took 16 hours to reach the summit from the glacier.
7. The most technically challenging sections:
   1. 150 m rock couloir.
   2. 80 m wall of the Shlem pinnacle.

9. Helmet via the western wall to the northern ridge, route 46 cat. dif., Fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend along the Siam at first along the moraines, and then, turning right, reach the Big Siam glacier. Leaving the peaks to the right:

• Medvezhiy Zamok (Bear Castle)
• Shlem (Helmet) approach the western wall of the northern ridge of the peak. The approach from the base camp to the peak takes 4 hours. There are camping sites on the moraine. The characteristic color of the wall of the northern ridge of the peak is yellow-green. Three inclined veins run along the wall from top right to left:
• The right vein leads to the highest visible part of the wall from below,
• The middle vein is in the center,
• The left vein leads to the rocky gate on the ridge.