Хырс

Ascent to the Hirš peak via the buttress cleft on the western wall, 3B-4 difficulty category, 1000 m elevation gain, rock route with piton belay.

Ascent Passport ASCENT CLASS — rock climbing ASCENT REGION — Pamir-Alay, Igizak area PEAK, ASCENT ROUTE — Hyrс, via the cleft in the western wall buttress EXPECTED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B–4B ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: 1000 m elevation gain, ice and rock, main section is rock with an average steepness of 75° and a length of 200 m, 4th difficulty category. 15 rock pitons hammered in for belaying MOVING TIME — 8 hours for a team of two NUMBER OF NIGHTS — PARTICIPANTS' FULL NAMES — Kadmensky A.G. (1st sports category), Furman V.I. (Candidate for Master of Sports)

Ascent to the summit of Hyrс via the eastern ridge from the Vorobyiny pass, category 3A complexity, route description and recommendations for climbers.

133 Ascent to the peak Hyrс from Vorobьиный Pass – Cat. 3A The ascent to the summit is done from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac located below the peak Bivaчная. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of the peaks Khamsai, Ular, Hyrс, and Kulay Dzhovanon, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular glacier plateau, from which exit to Vorobьиный Pass. Hyrс is a strongly serrated ridge with large differences in altitude. It is composed mainly of gray granites. The main summit is located in the middle, towering above the others. The ridge is sharp with sheer walls, stretched in the meridional direction. The ascent to the ridge begins from Vorobьиный Pass along the eastern snowy slope (25–30°) of the spur extending from the main ridge to the pass. It is better to enter the spur from the pass slightly to the left. From the snowy slope, exit onto the rocky spur (good holds, 25–30°) and ascend directly upwards for 120 m to the ridge with a snowy cornice overhanging to the west. Belaying is done through ledges. Further movement occurs along the ridge to the left towards the south. After passing the cornice, go left of the ridge, first on snow for 60 m, then ascend a 6 m high rock wall. Here, piton belaying is organized. From here, go 20 m on snow, and then on rocks with a gradient of 30–35° with good ledges and holds to exit below a 5 m long snowy cornice hanging from the ridge to the left (east) with a small overhang. The cornice is bypassed on the left under overhanging icicles. Belaying is done through ledges. Further, go on snow with alternate belaying (steep, wet snow — 180 m) to a gendarme with a flat top. The gendarme is ascended head-on. Belaying is done through ledges. After the gendarme, exit onto a snowy col, leaving a small sharp gendarme to the right.

Description of a new Category IIb climbing route to the summit of Khyrsh (3,760 m) via the West Face from the Kulay-Javan cirque in the Hissar mountain range.

Ascent Record Ascent type — rock climbing. Ascent area — Igizaki, Gissar Ridge. Peak — Khyrс, 3760 m, from Kulay Djavanom glacier via the shortest route. Estimated difficulty category — 2B. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 350 m, average steepness — 65°. Number of pitons driven — 17,