Peak Ozodi

Peak7,105 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent of the combined team of CSFK and S to Peak Korzhenevskaya via the northern part of the western wall in 1974.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya via the northern part of the western wall by the combined team of CS FC and S. Team captain I.G. Khatskevich, team coach V.P. Popov 1974 Peak Korzhenevskaya from the west. The left (northern) part of the western wall. The region of Central Pamir with its highest peaks in the USSR - Peaks "Kommunizma" and "Korzhenevskaya" - constantly attracts the attention of both domestic and foreign mountaineers. The climbers of the Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports set a goal to climb

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Ascent record of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via the northern part of the western wall, made by the team of the Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports.

Ascent Passport

74

I. Ascent class — high-altitude 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the northern part of the western wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 2000 m average steepness of the wall section — 70°, length of the snowy section — 1000 m 5. Number of pitons: rock — 153 ice — 1, crack-drilling — 3

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Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via the center of the West Face, 6th category of difficulty, Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — high-altitude
  2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the center of the West wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference — 1605 m
    • height difference of the wall section — 1200 m
    • length of sections:
      • 5th category — 715 m
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Ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via the central counterfort of the western wall, category 6A, made by the team consisting of Shaferov G., Dementiev S., Shcheglevatykh S. and Shapovalenko I. in 1993.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude.
  2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge.
  3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall.
  4. Difficulty category: 6A.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • height difference: 1900 m;
    • height difference of the wall section: 1250 m;
    • length of sections:
      • 5th difficulty category — 1040 m;
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Ascent of the "Mehnat" Sports Society team to Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) via the central couloir of the west face in 1980.

Report

The team of the Central Council of DSO "Mehnat" on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the central counterfort of the western wall in the program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1980 Peak Korzhenevskaya is located in the North-Western Pamir in the northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range. It was discovered in 1906 by N. L. Korzhenevsky. The summit was first conquered in 1953. By the present time, many interesting routes have been laid to the summit, including the western wall. The wall was first climbed in 1975 by our team, but as further study of the wall showed, the route taken was objectively dangerous in its lower part, which was dramatically confirmed on July 28 when a massive rockfall occurred down the central couloir. This year, three teams declared their intention to climb the western wall. We chose the safest option - to ascend via the central, indistinctly expressed counterfort. Additional research was conducted on the route, a scheme was drawn up, and the pattern of rockfalls was studied, with overnight stops planned. The team believes that such wall routes should be climbed by small groups, so it was decided to proceed with six climbers. To replenish the team with young participants, additional entries were made. The team consisted of:

  • Putinchev A.V. - MS, team captain
  • Voronin V.T. - MS
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Report on the ascent of the KAiS "Black Ice" team to the summit of **Korzhenevskaya** via the left bastion of the southwestern ridge, category 5B difficulty.

Report on the Ascent of

Peak Korzhenevskaya via the Left Bastion of the Southwest Ridge, Category 5B, by the "Black Ice" Team from July 23 to July 28, 2022

I. Route Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderMikhail Aleksandrovich Polyakov, 1st sports rank
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsMikhail Vladimirovich Grishin, 1st sports rank, Sergey Valerievich Nasedkin, 1st sports rank up to 6300 m
1.3Full Name of CoachVasily Yuryevich Gordeev
1.4Organization"Black Ice"
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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