Mazeri
Description of the ascent route to the summit via the northwest wall with tactics and techniques for overcoming challenging terrain.
Fig. 40.
Route Description: траверс
SSummitMateAscent to Mazeri East via the East Ridge, a combined route of 5A difficulty category, description of the path, key sections, and tactics.
277. Mazeri East via East Ridge (a combined route, I. Solodueva, cat. 5A, fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258), cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right (closed crevasses) and ascend its southeastern branch to Mazeri Pass, located between the wall of South Ushba and the first pinnacle of Mazeri East Ridge. From the glacier, bypassing the bergschrund on the right, ascend a steep snow-firn slope (falling rocks from Ushba walls) and steep moderate rocks to Mazeri Pass. For the ascent path to Mazeri Pass from Gulsky Glacier, see point 256.
From the pass, ascend easy rocks of the East Ridge to the first pinnacle (cairn). Bypass the second pinnacle on the left via crumbling ledges, then reach a notch. From the notch, ascend steep easy and moderate rocks of the East Ridge with a 3-4-meter difficult wall to the third pinnacle, from where a 25-30 m rappel descends to a col beneath the fourth pinnacle.
Overcome the fourth pinnacle, and then the fifth ("Tower") directly via easy and moderate snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge with a 30-40 m rappel to a col area (cornice).
Continue along the East Ridge:
- a small snow-covered seventh pinnacle (cornices);
- descend from the ridge to the left and traverse via crumbling rocks of moderate and above-moderate difficulty,
- crossing snowy-ice gullies,
- ascend a steep snowy slope to a snowy notch of the East Ridge of the seventh pinnacle with "Mazeri Gates". From the notch:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the 4A category complexity route to Mazeri Zapadnaya peak via the Northern ridge, including ice, snow, and rock sections with technical details and ascent time.
279. Mazeri Zapadnaya via North Ridge (combined route, V. Staritskiy, cat. 4A, Fig. 32, 40). From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki (point 258) cross Ushbinsky Glacier to the right and approach the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Mazeri Zapadnaya peak via its southern branch. From the glacier, ascend a snow-ice slope with a bergschrund in the middle part, then traverse simple rocks on the left side to reach the North Ridge. From there, ascend rocks of medium difficulty, partially severely damaged, along the North Ridge. Continue along the snow-ice ridge - slope to a rocky outcrop. Ascend steep rocks of medium difficulty with two challenging wall sections to a small snow slope. Traverse the slope to the right and ascend to a platform via simple and medium-difficulty rocks along the ridge. Bivouac. From Okhotnichye Ploshchadki, 6-8 hours.
From the platform, ascend 100-120 m along the ice-snow ridge, then 120-150 m along rocks of medium difficulty, and further along steep, snow-covered rocks (100-120 m) with difficulty above medium and 3-5-meter wall sections along the North Ridge to reach the platform of the Big Gendarme. The Gendarme can be bypassed:
- to the right, traversing a couloir (chimney).
From here, ascend 80-100 m along simple, damaged, and snow-covered rocks on the left side of the West Ridge to reach the summit of Mazeri Zapadnaya. From the bivouac, 6-8 hours.
Fig. 40.