Object 18294197

Glacier0.00 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Description of the ascent route to the summit of Nakra via the north wall, difficulty 5B, duration 8-10 hours.

& 150–200 × 45°–50°
& 200–250 mm
& 200–220 × 111–1 B
& 100 × 30°
& 250–300 m H–1 B
& 100–120 × 25°–35°
& 10 m H & 200 m H–1 B

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Ascent to the summit of Nakra via the Right Buttress of the North wall (4B category of complexity), route description and required equipment.

51. Nakra via Right Counter-fors of the North Face (A. Zamora's route, cat.4B diff.). The path from "Baksan" alp-camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the right-bank moraine of the Severniy Donguzrun glacier is described in route 50. From the moraine:

  • cross the Severniy Donguzrun glacier
  • go through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of Nakra's North Face It is possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right via the rocks of the North counter-fors of the Northwest ridge and above it traverse through a snowy couloir (belay, falling rocks, ice falls!) to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of the North Face. Up the occasionally snowy rocks of medium difficulty of the counter-fors with several short walls and small gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right:
  • ascent (pitons belay!) to a site in the middle of the counter-fors At the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.
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Description of the route to the summit of Nakara via the North Buttress and North-West Edge with a difficulty category of 4A.

As­cen­sion along the North­ern coun­ter­force and North­west

De­scrip­tion of Shar­ni­rog

From the ridge of the Bok­tu­zu­ruk hinge to the North, compressed between the North­ern coun­ter­forc­es of v. Ka­za­ra and 300–400 m away from them, be­hind large boul­ders, by­pass­ing the last corn­er of the na­ga­to­go. The en­trance to the boul­ders of the root and the growth are at­trib­uted to the whole Shar­ni­rog. With beds along sim­ple ris­ing ter­rain, com­pressed coun­ter­force wool up­wards. Solid­i­fi­ca­tion with hard 60 m along the spe­cif­ic corn­er with a сквоз­nym for­est, then 150–200 m along com­pressed me­dium-dif­fi­culty ter­rain to mi­nua­da­li. Above the skill com­pressed with skele­ton (along mi­nua­dale konzro­reyevom 150). Skill-ful wool, en­circled from the left. Be­hind it up­wards along com­pressed

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Ascent to the summit of Nakra via the North-west ridge (Cat. 2B) from the "Baksan" alp camp in 3 days with a description of the route and options for overcoming difficult sections.

49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily

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Ascent to the summit of Nakra via the South-west ridge, category 2A, from the "Baksan" alp camp in 2 days.

48. Nakra via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) head in the direction of Donguzorunkel lakes, as described in route 44. Before reaching the second (upper) small lake, turn left off the trail, cross the Donguzorun river, and ascend via talus, then a snowy slope, to the bergschrund below the false Donguzorun pass. Having crossed the bergschrund, ascend a 120-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Nakra peak — the false Donguzorun pass, located on the ridge to the left of the Donguzorun pass. From the saddle, descend 80–100 m down severely fragmented easy rock (loose stones!) to the snowy slope of the Western Nakra glacier. From here, go left, bypassing talus on snow to the right, and ascend via snowy

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