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Ascent to the summit of Shaurtu via the main route along the right edge of the wall of the South-Eastern ridge, category of difficulty 4B, with route description and recommendations for climbers.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — technical
  2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi
  3. Peak — Shaurtu Glavnaya via the right edge of the South ridge wall
  4. Difficulty category — 4A
  5. Route characteristics: height difference from Bezengi alpine camp is 2150 m average steepness 60° length of 4th difficulty sections — 30 m, 80 m, 90 m
  6. Pitons hammered: 13 rock, 2 ice, 6 chocks
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Report on the ascent of the RCSRT-II team to the summit of Shota Rustaveli via the North Face, category 5B route in 1985.

Physical Culture and Sports Committee under the USSR Council of Ministers

XXXVI USSR Alpine Championship 1985

Snow and Ice Ascent Category

Report

On the ascent of Shota Rustaveli peak, 4960 m, via the north face, category 5B difficulty, made by the team RSFSR – II.

Team's Tactical Actions

A day before departure, an observation of the route and a study of the lower part of the route were conducted. The tactic was built to safely and quickly pass the extended snow and ice route.

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