General view of p. Nulkovsky from the 10th branch of the glacier 170 NE 36 km. 7. C HOM E. za­cund, 74 12, 14, 15

General view of p. Nulkovsky from the 10th branch of the glacier 170 NE 36 km. 7. C HOM E. za­cund, 74 12, 14, 15

Photo 2. Overview photograph of the area. Peaks of the massif 5772 m (Upper Mazars valley)

First ascents of Peak 5285m

(p. Akik-Toо)

Peak 5285m is located in the western part of the main Zavlastnoy ridge, at the junction with the ridge where p. Sverdlova is situated. The ascent was made from the intermediate camp at 3800m of the Sverdlov Jubilee expedition. The intermediate base camp at 3800m was located on the old side, covered with grass, near a small lake, in the upper reaches of the Kok-Kyik gorge. The path from the 3800m camp goes along the left (orographically) bank of the Kok-Kyik river across a grassy slope. After 40–50 minutes of walking, there is an exit to the scree, where you need to turn right, bypassing the spurs of p. Kuznetsova. After an hour and a half to two hours of walking, there is a pass through the ridge coming from Peak 5150m (p. Metallurgov Urala). It takes 20–30 minutes to overcome the ridge. Behind the ridge, a flat black lateral moraine begins (orographically left moraine of the Kok-Kyik glacier), which leads almost under the route. On the flat moraine, it's not hard to find a convenient spot for tents. The height is 4200m. The entire approach from the 3800m camp takes 3–4 hours. The approach to the wall is made across the closed glacier. Closer to the wall, you need to walk between avalanche deposits. One or two rope lengths before the wall, there is a bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge. Further, across the ice-firn slope, we exit with insurance under the beginning of the rock section. The ascent begins at the border of the rusty wall with black rocks (like sheep's foreheads) on the left. Further:

• Along an inclined ledge up to the right for 10–15m;

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Zaalayskiy ridge (section 4.4 p. 13 KMGV).
2. Route: Jipak peak (4472 m), S ridge (G. Starikov, 1967).
3. Cat. difficulty: 1B rock.
4. Route characteristics: rock route.
5. Height difference of the route: 250 m.
6. Route length: 350 m.
7. Length of sections of 1st cat. difficulty: 300 m.
8. Average steepness of the main part: 40°.
9. Maximum steepness: 45°.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Pamir, Zaalai Ridge (section 4.4 p. 50 KMGV).
2. Route: Petrovskogo peak (4700 m), from Achik-Tash gorge (A. Zaidler, 1966).
3. Category: 1B
4. Route characteristics: the route is combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 1500 m.
6. Route length: 2500 m.
7. Average slope of the main part: 30°.
8. Climbing hours on the route: – 10 hours.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina via the Eastern Ridge.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Yukhina (5130 m) via the Eastern Ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir. Trans-Alay Range. Peak Yukhina 5130 m. Presumed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent. Nature of the route — rocky. Height difference of the route — 400 m. Route length — 1000 m.
2. Length of sections: I — 350 m, II — 350 m, III — 300 m.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route — degrees.
4. Number of "hooks" left on the route: total — 0;

№ 5500 (“Кораблик”)

6058 Bay­ko­ma

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8