23.558

Description of the Traverse

Mt. Igizak (Category I difficulty) From the overnight stay on the green meadow located below Bivouachnaya Mt. Byravnaya, one needs to move upwards along the Igizak River, initially through grassy slopes and scree, and then through snow. After 1.5–2 hours, one can reach the Naizakhba Pass, situated between the peaks of Igizak and Maly Igizak. The ascent to the summit of Mt. Igizak follows the western ridge, which consists of easy rocks. The movement is simultaneous. The ascent from Naizakhba Pass to Mt. Igizak takes 40–50 minutes. The summit elevation is approximately 3700 m. The eastern ridge features alternating sections of small snowfields, easy rocks, and small scree. The descent follows the right side of the ridge (three gendarmes remain on the left) down to Maly Igizak Pass, with simultaneous movement throughout. From Maly Igizak Pass, the descent to the overnight stay via snowfields presents no difficulties. For a small group, the descent from Mt. Igizak to Maly Igizak Pass takes 25–30 minutes, and from Maly Igizak Pass to the overnight stay, it takes 40–50 minutes. Compiled by: Mashkov V. S.

38. Hamsøya Central summit, from Bezymyannyi pass, category III, fig. 17

From the "Green Glade" bivouac, follow the stream flowing from the ice amphitheater towards Bezymyannyi pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow and talus. Hamsøya is a ridge with three summits oriented in a meridional direction. From the pass, head south towards the North summit. The first sentinels are bypassed on the left. The rocks are crumbling. A ridge approaches the North summit from the left. Before reaching the ridge, ascend slightly to the right. Reach the summit without ascending onto the main ridge. The descent from the North summit is over easy rocks along a narrow ridge towards the col between the North and Central summits. Then descend down to the right from the ridge and follow a series of ledges to reach the col. The ascent to the Central summit from the col is up a smooth 10 m wall via a crack. Protection is piton. Then reach large smooth slabs. They are traversed via a crack. Moving left along large boulders, reach the Central summit. Between the Central and South summits lies a deep gap. The descent from the summit is over smooth, stepped rocks. Bypass the sentinel on the right via a wide ledge and descend into the col below the South summit via a couloir, which drops off with a negative smooth slab. From the col, descend down to the right along a steep couloir, then follow the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7 hours. Fig. 17.

23. Khodzha Laizi from the south, route category III, fig. 10 (Mukhamedova E., with a group – 1953)

The route starts from the Khodzha-Obi-Garm resort along a grassy slope to the southern ridge of the summit. Climb along the ridge to a rocky gendarme, which does not present particular difficulties. Pass the next gendarme on the right through a couloir with black stones. The couloir leads to a grassy slope, at the top of which a large rocky spire is visible. KHODJA LAISI CORNISES (IN SPRING)! 23 RESORT Fig. 10. The grassy ridge narrows and leads to rocks. Reach the sub-summit along the ridge. Traverse complex sections on the left of the ridge along scree. Before the summit, the ridge has a steep step down, 5–7 m high, where it is necessary to set up a rope descent. Steep, smooth rocks lead to the summit ridge. Reach the summit along easy rocks. The ascent takes 6 hours. Descend from the summit to the left along scree into the cirque beneath Ular peak. In winter, descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

56. Yakum from the southwest, route 2A cat. diff., fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir in the direction of the summit. Then turn right onto the slope towards the saddle between the gendarmes to the left of the Yakum pass. There may be snow on the slope. From the saddle, move up the grassy slope, bypassing individual rock outcrops, in the direction of the uppermost saddle in the second ridge. From the saddle, exit left under the wall, before reaching the couloir that descends steeply from the ridge. Ascend 40 m of steep rocks with piton belay to reach the couloir. Then continue up the couloir to the black rocks, from where follow the ledges to the ridge. Cairn. Fig. 29. Continue to the summit along the broken ridge with three gendarmes. Descend from the first gendarme 5–6 m down a sheer wall. The remaining gendarmes are traversed with alternating belay. Reach the summit via a broad and gentle ridge. Descend from the summit to the west — 1B cat. diff. (route 55). The ascent takes 4–5 hours.

• Porshrum on Vetene (with pitch numbers)

Verkhnyaya Baika and Chaniyagina

The hike from the Gas Lagoon to the foot of Nuluar took 1 hour and 20 minutes. From the foot of Nuluar, the group started ascending along a fully scenic autumn route and followed the dry stream bed to Chyorny Vodopad (Black Waterfall). The ascent from the foot of Nuluar took 1 hour. From Chyorny Vodopad, which falls into Nuluar on the right-hand side, the ascent continued in the direction of the layered paldor. The steel outcrops in Nuluar were bypassed on the right. The route lay across grassy slopes and sedges. Using a dusty layered podr, two supporting shinon grassy shelves branch off from Nuluar to the right and upwards. After 120–150 meters, the group reached a narrow, steep nuluar leading upwards, and then moved onto a grassy field. From here, the ascent continued upwards, and the distant goal came into view - the goldny grobeny, offering a panoramic view. Here, the group rested. (The ascent from the waterfall took 1.5 hours) From the "eslno" shoulder, the group moved along grassy sections (200–300 meters) and snowy snowfields (400–500 meters) in the direction of a narrow, illuminated, descending section, which led to the southwest ridge. They then followed the illuminated descending section, leaving the "barany lby" (ram's foreheads) on the right, and reached the pre-summit trebiy. (The ascent from the "eslno" shoulder to trebiy took 1 hour and 20 minutes) The builder on the upper section of the polotoy osnya, the group entered the sntopik on the snsnnuyu pereminu.

From the base camp along Ak-kem lake to the right up a steep grassy slope into Ak-okk gorge (1 h) and further towards Burevestnik pass. Past two lakes, leaving the icefall descending from Ak-okk peak on the left, exit to the moraine in its upper part. Total time to reach the starting point — 2.5 h. The route starts in the same way as to per. Burevestnik.

166-a

2B 1.3.14a

PASSPORT I. Climbing category: first ascent 2. Altai, South-Chuya Ridge, Sofiysky Glacier area. 3. Pik Uchebnaya - Pik Barnaul traverse. 4. Category proposed: ZA. 5. Elevation gain: 600 m, distance: 3250 m. 6. Pitons were not used. 7. Climbing time: 8 hours.

V. Krasnoyarsk (3340) via N ridge

sec. 0–I: Steep snowy couloir with rocky sec. I–2: Not clearly defined steep rocky ridge. Bypass to the right via steep ledges. sec. 2–3: Wide, destroyed ridge. Stick to the right side, exit to the ridge at the end of the section. sec. 3–4: Move slightly below the ridge on the right side via ledges. sec. 4–5: Steep rocky ridge. The ridge becomes gentler at the end of the section. Rocks are destroyed. sec. 5–6: Traverse along the ridge. Before reaching the summit, there's a connecting ridge with a descent and ascent with belay. Descent via scree ledges on the 3rd side. Moving time — 10 hours.