Tur (4350 m)

Traverse from southwest to east — category 2B (Fig. 2)

From the initial bivouac located near the terminal moraine of the Levyy Kaskelen glacier, head north towards the summit, which is clearly visible. Initially, it's convenient to follow the stream flowing from the glacier. After ascending the first moraine step, reach a small moraine lake and from there, traverse the fine and medium-sized, densely packed talus, interspersed with snowfields, to the depression in the western ridge of Tur peak. Fig. 2. After ascending the second moraine step, move to its lateral ridges, keeping close to the ridge leading from Tur peak. Continue moving along the moraine and then onto the glacier. After 700–800 m, the foot of the Burkut-tas pass (3900 m) is reached. The ascent to the pass via a steep (up to 50°) snowfield, spanning 300–500 m, leads under a cornice. Carefully cutting through it, exit onto the pass saddle. The journey from the bivouac to the pass takes 3–4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via the southwest ridge. Initially, the rocks are of moderate difficulty (belaying is mandatory), with a significant drop on the right side. After 60–70 m of progress, the path is blocked by an 80-meter gendarme, which is overcome head-on. Characteristics of the passage:

• The number of holds is limited
• Belaying is via pitons (caution!)

Route Description.

The approach path is the same as to the summit of Pogrebetsky. Moving along the middle of the Tuyuksu glacier and rounding the northwest ridge of the eponymous peak, turn left towards the foot of a large couloir located at the junction of the northwest ridge of Tuyuksu peak and the main ridge, running from Tuyuksu pass to the summit. The couloir is quite long, its lateral branches are framed by rocks, and it is hazardous due to rockfall. It is recommended to pass through it early in the morning, sticking to the left side and using rock outcrops for cover. Upon reaching the ridge, turn left and ascend to the summit via easy, heavily broken rocks. Descent:

• It is safer via Tuyuksu pass. Time required for the ascent: 7–8 hours.

Recommendations:

1. Number of participants: 8–10 people.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from bivouac at 4:00 AM.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — Technical.
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ala-Archa gorge, Adygene gorge, Teztor tract.
3. Peak, route: First ascent to the peak "Svyataya Ekaterina" via the southern slope.
4. Estimated complexity category — 1B.
5. Height difference — 900 m.
6. Total route length — 4500 m.
7. Crucial section length — 1000 m. 1B complexity category.
8. Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
9. Leader — Zusik M.V.

Ascent Passport

Climb Class Climb Region Peak, its height Ascent Route Difficulty Category (approximate) Height Difference Average Steepness Driven Kryachev's:

• rock
• ice
• bolt anchors Laid закладок Number of walking hours Number of overnight stays

Participants:

1. Nagovitsina Elena Yulyevna
2. Zueva Tamara Aleksandrovna

Ascent Record

I. Ascent class — combined 2. Ascent region — Tian Shan, Kungoy Ala-Too 3. Peak — MOLODYKH ALPINIS­TOV, height — 3850 m, route via NE ridge, combined 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A 5. Route characteristics

• height difference
• average steepness
• sections of 5th difficulty category

2. Climbing area — Yan Man; Terskey Ala Too ridge
3. Summit — p. S. Ir­se­nina, 4240 m, As­hu­tor 114 pass
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3Б'32 н/н 1/х­i-83.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 550 m. length of sections of I category of difficulty — 440 m. | | II | -380 | | :-: | :-: | :---: | | | III | - 215 | | | IY | — II8 |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area - Western Tian-Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route "Kyzylbash" - 4200 m NE ridge 4. Expected difficulty category 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 62° length of sections 5-6 cat. diff. 320 m 6. Pitons hammered:

3. The summit, its height, route ascent — Manas, 4482 m, southern ridge from a. Asmas
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 1B
5. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of section I–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1182 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: 1 cat. diff. — 300 m, 2 cat. diff. — 50 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: rock — 2 pcs., ice — none, bolted — none
7. Number of walking hours — 10
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics — none

I. Rock grade 20: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45° 35: Borisov E.I. — Candidate Master of Sports, instructor. Lukin A.A. — 3rd sports grade, Launitc D.V. — 3rd sports grade, Luneva R.A. — 3rd sports grade, Baymølin G.A. — 2nd sports grade. 10. Team coach — MS Kuznetsova N.P. II. Date of departure on the route and return — April 30, 1982. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Pokemsky ridge. Piazak 3. v. Piazak, 3718 m, from the saddle of the Northern ridge. 4. Category of difficulty 2B, 15 rock 5. Route characteristics:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Gadhyr Gorge 3. Ascent Route — peak KONSTRUKTOROV, 4200 m, SOUTH wall 4. Proposed Category — 5B difficulty 5. Route Characteristics: elevation gain — 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty — 320 m, average steepness — 47° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating R.P. (Rope Placement) rock 27, chocks 34 pieces