47. Zaramag via the North Buttress and East Ridge (combined route, category 4B difficulty) The path from the CSP of the Tsey area to the initial bivouac in the South Branch hut of the Tsey Glacier. From the hut (departure at 3:00–4:00 a.m.):

• Cross the plateau of the South Branch of the Tsey Glacier (closed crevasses).
• Approach the second, counting from the right, narrow ice-and-snow couloir of the North wall of Zaramag peak.
• At the top, ice seracs of the North wall overhang the middle part of the couloir. From the plateau, via an avalanche gully in the center of the couloir, cross the bergschrund and traverse 100 m left-upwards (rockfall, possible avalanches, ice serac collapses) to approach a small couloir descending from the North Buttress of the East Ridge of Zaramag peak and ending in a narrow shaft with a plug. Turn left at the beginning of the couloir. Via a small inclined ledge, then via steep, above-average difficulty rocks (pitons), ascend to the ridge of the North Buttress. Here, turn right and ascend simple rocks of the North Buttress to a ledge. Along the ledge, 200–250 m upwards via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the North Buttress under the overhanging walls to a site. From the hut, 3–4 hours. From the site of the I gendarme, standing to the right of the ridge of the buttress, bypass left via steep, simple, and average difficulty rocks on the right side of the upper buttress with an ascent of 200–250 m (pitons) to a site. From the site:
• Via simple, then steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty, an ascent of 200–250 m under the 2nd gendarme.

6. V. Zaromag via North Counterfort and East Ridge, cat. 4B

EAST RIDGE ZIL PASS SADDLE BIG G. I P. II P. III P. IV P. WEST RIDGE VCSPS SHOULDER FRESHFIELD PASS

Zarsmag 4B

V. Zardmag via North face of the "Zil" Gendarme and East ridge

Route difficulty category: 4B

• R14
• R13
• Saddle
• R12
• R11
• R10
• R9

From the "Осетии" pass, descend down to the glacier under the slopes of V. Kamenny. The route begins on the right part of the glacier under the slopes of V. Kamenny. Section R0–R1. The beginning of the route is to the right of the stream flowing from the couloir. It is climbed with alternating belay. The terrain is a fusion of ledges with short walls (4–6 m). The upper part of the section enters the beginning of the couloir: there are rocks in the couloir. The rocks are of medium and below medium difficulty (piton belay). Section R1–R2. From the beginning of the couloir, move along its right side, along the beginning of the rock outcrop (rock outcrop against the background of the snowy couloir). There is a wall with a shoulder at the top. The rocks in the section are below medium difficulty. Section R2–R3. Climb with alternating belay (be cautious on the left side — rocks); in the upper part, the route exits onto a ledge; from here, glacial ice is possible at the beginning of the season. Section R3–R4. From the ledge, turn right, along rocks of below medium difficulty (pitons), pass 80–100 m and exit onto a shoulder (on the shoulder) to the beginning of the main inclined ledge — a control cairn. Section R4–R5. From the control cairn, move along simple rocks and an inclined ledge, which leads to a shoulder (good platforms on the shoulder). Section R5–R6. From the shoulder, turn left and climb the wall with horizontal ledges to a platform under the beginning of a vaguely expressed inner corner. The rocks of the section are of medium and above medium difficulty. Climb with alternating belay (pitons). Section R6–R7. From the ledge, along the left side of the inner corner, under the ridge. Climb the section with alternating belay (pitons).

Streams R0 160 m 3 (45–50°) R2 120 m 2 45° R3 60 m 3 80° BLACK RIDGE R4

V. KALPER VIA NORTH EDGE

4А

R0–R1: 100 m 40° 3 R1–R2: 70 m 30° 1 R2–R3: 60 m 35° 2 R3–R4: 100 m 50° 4 R4–R5: 70 m 50° 1 R5–R6: 80 m 40° 3 R6–R7: 150 m 30° 2

169. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Western slope and the Northern ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-6 people) to the Lower Ice overnight camps is described in route 83. From the Lower Ice overnight camps, cross the Uilpatinka river and, turning left, intersect the right-bank moraine. Descend from it to the Tsey glacier, cross it, then ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest part. Leave the moraine and ascend via the middle talus on the right side of the couloir descending from the Northern ridge of Kaltberg peak. Then:

• cross the couloir to the left and upwards,
• reach a grassy slope and move up along it to the Western counterfort. Further, via simple broken rocks and talus of the Western counterfort, bypassing all gendarmes along simple rocks and talus ledges, ascend to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn right and, via simple rocks, bypassing difficult wall sections on the left, then along the 100-120-meter wide icy-snowy Northern ridge (with protection), approach the Big Gendarme. Here, exit right onto a talus ledge. Along it, then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge, ascend to the Big Gendarme. From the gendarme, make a 12-15 m sports descent to a snowy saddle. Further:
• via steep rocks of the narrow Northern ridge,
• a 30-meter broken ascent,
• ascend to the summit of Kaltberg.

168. Kaltberg (4120 m) via the Eastern slope and Northern ridge (combined route, 2A category of difficulty, Fig. 35). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the Skazskie nochyovki is described in route 166. On the platforms, turn right and exit to the snowy plateau via the destroyed rocky moraine - the slope above the hanging glacier's drop-offs, descending east from the Northern ridge of the Kaltberg peak. Move right-up along the slope - plateau (stonefall is possible from the left). Then, having crossed the bergschrund via a snowy bridge, ascend the steep 180–200-meter ice-snow slope (belay) to the Northern ridge of Kaltberg. Here, turn left. Further:

• Ascend 90 m via simple rocks, then via a gently sloping ice-snow slope of the wide Northern ridge (belay) below the rocks of the Big gendarme.
• Ascend to the Big gendarme's summit via a talus shelf and then via steep rocks of the Northern ridge.
• From the gendarme, make a 15-meter sports descent to a snowy saddle.
• Then, ascend the short, narrow, and destroyed 30-meter rocky slope of the Northern ridge to the Kaltberg summit. From the initial bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The route duration is 2 days.

59. KARAUGOM VOSTOCHNY (EAST) via Western ridge (combined route, cat. 4A) Path from CSP of Tseysky district or from the village of Dzinaga to the saddle in the center of Karaugom massif. At the saddle, turn right and along the snowy ridge (cornices), approach under the 1st gendarme of the Western ridge of Vostochny Karaugom peak and bypass 2 gendarmes of the Eastern ridge on the right along steep ice-snow slopes (pitons belay). Tackle the 3rd gendarme head-on via simple and moderately difficult snow-covered rocks of the Eastern ridge; bypass the 4th gendarme on the right along a steep ice-snow slope (pitons belay) and approach under the summit ascent. Along steep rocks of medium and above medium difficulty of the ascent "live" rocks — pitons belay (ascent to the summit of Vostochny Karaugom). 10-14 hours from the initial bivouac. Descent via South-eastern counterfort.