Merdven-Kaya — 3. “The Evil One”

Difficulty: 3B V. Year of route creation: 2008. Length: 220 m. Time to complete: 3–5 hours. Route description: Passes through the left part of the SW wall. The approach starts from where the dirt road goes under Hergiani Rock. Up the trail, bearing right, bypassing the rock, then through a couloir with some simple climbing, exit onto a large inclined grassy ledge. Up the ledge to the left. The start is along a steep corner from a small tree. Landmark — a bush in a diagonal crack. R0–R1, 45 m Up the inner corner to a dry tree, then along an inclined inner corner up to the left. Move along the left edge of the corner. Station on a juniper in the corner. Climbing:

• 10 m IV
• 35 m III R1–R2 50 m From the tree, continue up the corner to the left, climbing is not difficult. In the upper part, the corner is blocked by a “cork”, it is bypassed on the right, then traverse left, and up onto a horizontal ridge. Station on personal anchors.

Merdven-Kayasy - 15. "Fiesta"

Massif: Merdven-Kayasy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 4A Author: Lavrinenko A., Miryuk Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 270 m Time to complete: 3–5 hours Route description: The route is logical, but requires some navigation skills. On the 3rd rope, the rocks are destroyed, climb very carefully! It's advisable to take a 60 m rope, but you can go with a 50 m one, there are enough trees, only on the last rope you'll have to make a station on nuts or pitons. The approach starts from the place where a dirt road goes under the Khergiani rock. Up the path, turning right, bypassing the rock, then along the couloir, местами — simple climbing, exit to a large inclined grassy ledge. Up along it, under the base of the inner corner, where the route begins. R0–R1, 55 m All the time up the corner, the complexity gradually increases. Insurance with large stoppers and friends, there are several trees. Station on a tree at the beginning of a wide chimney. 15 m III, 40 m IV+; R1–R2, 60 m

Author: Yura Kryglov, Sevastopol "Madera Krymskaya" (380 m, 5B, F6b+, E3, A2) — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy. No bolts On Sunday, May 17, we completed a new line on Merdven-Kayasy (10 minutes walk along the upper road to the east from Chertova Lestnitsa). The route is called "Madera Krymskaya". Yura Kruglov is climbing the second rope of the route. The second rope is a song. It was because of this drink that, after finding myself in the company of stitched abstainers on Saturday evening and unnoticedly drinking it alone, I had to deviate from the pre-planned line of the intended route the next day in its upper part. But even as it turned out, the "Madera" route more than justified my expectations.

Approaching the route, history of the place, descent, and our recommendations

The lower part of Merdven-Kayasy wall was a popular training spot for rock climbers back when the upper road wasn't yet called upper. Buses on the Sevastopol-Yalta route would speed by on it. It's hard to imagine now... Among rock climbers, the lower part of the wall was known as "Khergiani Rock". The approach from the upper road to the foot of the wall takes a few minutes. But you can shorten even these few minutes by driving a car on a dirt road that branches off the asphalt towards the wall. The road leads to a clearing with an excellent camping spot. It takes less than a minute of slow walking from the campsite to the start of the routes.

Author: Yuri Kruglov, Sevastopol

"Sevastopol-230" — a new route on Merdven-Kayasy

The impetus for the new route was the first ascent of the "Trudnosti" route on Merdven-Kayasy, which starts from the sap. The angle dimensions at Forosskiy Kant. (a virgin vertical route on it) The weather was constantly changing, while sitting in the wardroom, sometimes with Oleg. Patience to sit PС (skis are provided) on Saturday, March 30, we planned to pass in April, but the weather was pouring rain until then. The attempt to climb PС took place. And finally, on Saturday, April 6, the weather presented a gift — we climbed and descended! The route turned out to be complex, interesting, very logical, beautiful, and memorable. To date, it is the most challenging route on Merdven-Kayasy. Not a single piton "for passage" was needed, but we equipped the stations along the way with stationary bolts from Kong and Fixe (with rings). In the upper part, the route connects with the "Bezzavetnyy" route. The terrain everywhere allows for natural protection. Route characteristics:

• Tense climbing with a transition to artificial technical climbing (a.t.c.) and back to free climbing — a characteristic feature of the route.

Mor­cheka — 21

Author: Ana­to­liy Ge­ni­ush, Sev­astopol The route was ascended in the classic alpinist style from bottom to top. The total time spent on the ascent was approximately 5 full working days (about 45 hours). The total length is approximately 260–280 m, 6 ropes of 45–60 m (the 6th rope is not counted). Currently, it is one of the most complex and interesting routes on the wall. One can even speak of its uniqueness, which lies in the fact that, with a complexity comparable to the "Machombo" route, it is completely new from the ground to the yayla. Only 15–20 meters of the entire path were not a first ascent. And it is quite logical: there are only 22 bolt hanger hooks on the route, and even those are more than needed. Section R0. The route starts from a large pine tree 10 m to the left and below the start of the "Brov'" route. Difficult climbing, initially between the wall and the pine tree, leads to a shelf with "live" stones. Bel­ay is done using pitons or the pine tree. Sec­tion R0–R1. From the shelf, move left to the mirror of the wall to a bolt hanger hook 2 m of climbing. Fur­ther — aid climbing. To the left of the bolt, a crack goes up, along which movement is done on pitons 5 m, then a transition to the left 1 m to a nut, and movement along another crack up and slightly to the right to a bolt hanger hook 7–8 m — predominantly on small stops, sometimes on pitons. After 3 m, another bolt hanger hook, then to the left and up 4–5 m to a powerful bolt.

Morcheka — 23

Author: Ivan Ershov, Moscow. "Variant" route, 6+ cat. (Mt. Morcheka, November 1986, I. Ershov) From the parking spot under the wall (in the cirque), follow the path under the right part of Mt. Morcheka's wall. The route starts to the right of two characteristic pine trees, the right one of which touches the wall with its top — about 10 meters to the right of the second pine. From the sloping shelf (slab), go straight up to a bolt (aid climbing), then up and slightly left along a blind crack. Characteristic features:

• pilasters;
• only with aid climbing;
• extremely careful;
• block placements;
• constructions like stopper + piton;
• small-sized stoppers.

The "Victoria" route (2B) was laid on Mshatka Kaya mountain on May 10, 2011 by a team from Luhansk: Alexander Khoroshevsky and Nikita Popov. The overall impression of the route is a beautiful and logical double pitch, with pleasant and varied technical climbing, after which you want to express gratitude to the authors of the route for 2 reasons:

• the line turned out to be really beautiful,
• to spot the route on the wall, which is already oversaturated with other lines, you need to have talent. "Victoria" passes between the "PK" and "Vilka" routes along a system of cracks. Insurance is predominantly natural, with one bolt hammered at each station. There are also a few intermediate bolts. You need to approach the route along a clearly visible path leading to "PK". 20 meters before the base of the PK route, you need to traverse to the right with a height gain and climb onto a ledge under the base of the wall - there is a bolt hammered there, this is the start of the route. Mshatka Kaya mountain. Route lines. High-resolution photo: "Victoria" route (2B), general scheme. High-resolution photo: alpinist.biz "Victoria" route (2B). Detailed scheme. High-resolution photo. R4 station - our version of the passage, R4* - the first ascenders' version.

Mshatka-Kaya — 2. "Halloween"

Massif: Mshatka-Kaya (618 m) Category: 3B Author: Kirill Gostev, Vladimir Odoyev A warm autumn day and a good mood, what else is needed for a pleasant climb. Of course, a location, a summit, where you can create a new route. Many will say - they say, in Foros there's no room left for pioneers, but if you think and take a closer look, you can find new lines. The route passes between the routes "Vilka levaya" (Left Fork) 2B and "Victoria" 2B. Despite the fact that the line is quite broken due to a long traverse, the route itself is interesting and logical, entirely tied to the relief, all stations are on their own gear and trees. Many sections of pleasant climbing.

Mshatka-Kaya — 8

Via the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the "Ear" massif, 4A

This is one of the most popular routes among climbers of average qualification. From the upper highway 50 m east of the climbers' parking near Forosky Kant:

• up and to the right at first along the trail and simple rocks
• to the base of the second counter-forcing route of the western part of the massif (R0: 300 m, 30–45, no category). On the R1–R2 section:
• up the system of walls and shelves
• then along the inner corner to a tree (R1–R2: 40 m, 700, III). On the R2–R4 section — at first up and left into the inner corner. Then along it for 70 m.

Paragelmination — 7

Route 2B cat. diff.

The route is easily accessible via a trail that goes from the road, oriented by ribbons hanging on trees. The ascent takes approximately 10–12 minutes. The start of the route is to the left of the ridge (do not confuse with the ridge on which route 1 cat. diff. passes — the far left one on the rock). From there, move towards a tree around which an iron rope is wrapped — organize the first belay (I) there. Move beyond the bend — you will come out to a small platform where:

• a "carrot" (morcovka) is fixed