Merdven-Kayasy - 15. "Fiesta"

Massif: Merdven-Kayasy (Khergiani) 856 m Complexity: 4A Author: Lavrinenko A., Miryuk Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 270 m Time to complete: 3–5 hours Route description: The route is logical, but requires some navigation skills. On the 3rd rope, the rocks are destroyed, climb very carefully! It's advisable to take a 60 m rope, but you can go with a 50 m one, there are enough trees, only on the last rope you'll have to make a station on nuts or pitons.

The approach starts from the place where a dirt road goes under the Khergiani rock. Up the path, turning right, bypassing the rock, then along the couloir, местами — simple climbing, exit to a large inclined grassy ledge. Up along it, under the base of the inner corner, where the route begins.

R0–R1, 55 m

All the time up the corner, the complexity gradually increases. Insurance with large stoppers and friends, there are several trees.

Station on a tree at the beginning of a wide chimney.

15 m III, 40 m IV+;

R1–R2, 60 m

Up the chimney, crawl under the plug, then along the ledge a little to the right and up, turning left, in the direction of the inner corner formed by a large boulder and the main wall.

Up the corner, then along the ledge to the left, to the juniper, on it is the station.

10 m III+; 40 m I; 5 m V; 5 m II R2–R3

50 m

From the station along the inclined grassy ledge to the left to the pine tree, not reaching it, up the inner corner 5 m, then up to the right, in the direction of the destroyed inner corner. Up the corner carefully, to the pine tree, from it to the right up, along a simple inner corner, exit to a large pine tree, on it is the station. Piton insurance plus trees.

20 m III+; 5 m V; 25 m III; R3–R4 40 m.

From the station, move to the right and up along the inner corner to the tree. From the tree along the crack — complex climbing, insurance with large stoppers and friends. Behind the bend — a ledge. From the ledge to the left and up to a more convenient ledge. Here it's convenient to make a station on a small tree and your own points.

• 15 m IV
• 10 m V
• 15 m III

R4–R5 60 m. From the station up to the right, through 2 small junipers, then 5 m to the right and up the crack, insurance with medium and large stoppers. 2 trees remain on the left, there's no need to go to them. The crack gradually turns to the left and through a small overhang leads to the yayla. IV+;