259

Winter Russian Cup, 258a, 1994

56 m REPORT on the ascent of the team (alpine club "Gornjak") to Shkhelda peak, III-a West, via the left part of the North face (4229 m) — First Ascent Team leader: Botov D.A. 2. Golubtsov S.G. 3. Reminyuk A.A. 4. Shevchenko V.V. Team coach: Odintsov A.N. 7–10/2–94

From the “Spartak” camp, the path goes along the forest trail of the “Pzheldy” gorge, then along the Dengi-Bashi slope and reaches the moraine (left orographically) of the Shkheldy glacier. At the beginning, the path goes along the moraine, over large stones. Having passed about 500 meters on them, we exit to the moraine, passing through several “pockets” formed by the moraine and the Dengi-Bashi slopes, and reach the “Aristov” campsite (the last pocket with good grounds). From the “Aristov” campsite, the path turns to the right along the moraine, which looks like a large railway embankment. On the Ak-Su glacier, we exit to the lateral moraine as high as possible. Here, on a green clearing, is the campsite. The journey takes 5–6 hours. When descending from the moraine, there are small snow patches. The path further lies along the Ak-Su glacier. Depending on the condition of the glacier, the crevices are bypassed on the right, closer to the hanging glacier above the campsite. The path goes through the middle of the glacier. The Ak-Su glacier represents three tiers. We approach a steep snowfield leading to the Sredniy pass, located between the Fizkulturnik dyad (east) and Malaya Shkhelda (west). The path from the Ak-Su cirque to the Sredniy pass goes:

• along a steep firn slope
• along the direction of the rocky ridge descending from Malaya Shkhelda to the Ak-Su cirque.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing season — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Shkhelda Centralnaya 4295 m via the right edge of the northern wall.
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference — 1265 m. Length — 1635 m. Length of sections with 5–6 complexity category — 644 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Bolts | Ice screws | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-------: | | 43 | 40 | - | 52 |

101. Traverse of the Shkhelda massif from west to east (L. Nadezhdin's route, category 5B difficulty). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" and the second bivouac on the scree of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda is described in route #86. From the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda, descend via scree, then via simple, destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge, overcoming small gendarmeries on destroyed rocks of medium difficulty directly, reaching a small shoulder. From the shoulder, go right and down a couloir, then traverse left along snow-covered ledges and inclined slabs onto the ridge. From here, follow a simple, snow-covered rocky ridge, then a 4-5-meter vertical chimney and a 12-15-meter wall to descend onto a snow col before the large black 1st Western gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. From the col, ascend via a sharp snow ridge (cornices!) with rock outcrops - climb to the base of the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. Bypass the rocky tower by traversing along the ice-snow slope, then along inclined snow-covered slabs on the right. After a short descent along the ridge, continue descending via difficult and medium-difficulty rocks of the wall on the right side of the ridge, leaving a figurative gendarme on the right, and descend onto a snow col under the 2nd gendarme. From the col, ascend via rocks of medium difficulty on the steep, sharp rocky ridge to reach the 2nd gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. The ascent is possible:

• by traversing along a ledge on the right side of the ridge,
• then directly upwards via difficult rocks of a 40-50-meter wall.

110. Peak Shchurovskogo via North-Eastern Ridge (route by V. Pelevin, category 4B complexity). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) along the Shkhelda Glacier to the "Shkhelda bivouacs" is described in route 105. From the "Shkhelda bivouacs" cross the left branch of the Shkhelda Glacier upwards to the right and descend under the right side of the false Chatyn pass. From the glacier, ascend the steep snowy slope and through a bergschrund reach the rocks. Ascend along moderately difficult snowy rocks, then along easy terrain to the right side of the ridge saddle — the false Chatyn pass. From the saddle, turn right and move up along easy rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Peak Shchurovskogo. Bypass the