E. KARAUGOM EASTERN PEAK VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE, Cat.4A diff.

The diagram shows:

• Western Peak
• Eastern Peak
• Shoulder
• North-Eastern ridge
• Saddle (two)
• Big Gendarme (BIG G.)
• Karaugom plateau

"Bikaravgom Zapadny" Route via the West Ridge

(combined, 4A cat. diff.) The path from the KSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga to the starting point on the platforms of the West Ridge of Bivuchnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 2-3 am due to rockfall in the couloir and the length of the route):

• Cross the Karaugom plateau.
• Move along the wide snow-ice couloir descending from the saddle between the peak and the West Gendarme.
• From the plateau, ascend 50-70 m up the snowy slope of the wide couloir to the bergschrund.
• Overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge.
• Ascend 250-300 m along the left side of the wide, steep snow-ice couloir (possible rockfall — prepare equipment).
• Reaching the foot of the rocky walls of the West Gendarme, traverse 100-120 m along the couloir beside the rocks on the right side of the gendarme (rockfall onto the saddle of the West Ridge — cornice — is possible on the right).

V. Karaugom Western via Western Ridge, Cat. 4A

BIG CL. WEST CL. R0–R12 500 m 35° 2B R12 60 m 35° 3B WESTERN R13–R20 300 m 35°–40° 3B R20–R22 80 m 45°–50° 4B R22–R23 50 m 40° 3A R23 120 m 35°–40° 2B

V. Karaugom Western via the North Edge, 5A cat. diff.

V. Karaugom, Traverse, 4B cat. diff.

Western Eastern North-East ridge Shoulder Bol. Zh. R1 R2 R3

13. V. Krasnoarmeets via the Southeast Ridge, 4A cat. dif.

R1–R3 80 m 45° 3+ R3 60 m 60° 4+ R4–R7 120 m 45° 3+ R7 60 m 45–50° 4 KRASNOARMEETS R7–R9 80 m 40° 3+ R9 40 m 45° 4 R10 50 m 40° 3+ R11 80 m 40–45° 3+

ASCENT DOCUMENT

2.7.68

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: ridge — Caucasus, Tsey Valley, Kalper ridge.
3. Peak, height, route, route characteristics: Lagau, 4064 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category: 2B
5. Pitons used: six
6. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average slope 30°.
7. Duration: 10 hours
8. Number of nights:

LAGAU via NW ridge, cat. 3B diff. via 3rd ridge, cat. 2B diff. via SW slope, cat. 2B diff.

Mos­kvich

The Mos­kvich peak (4009 m) is located in the central part of the Kalper ridge, between Passionar­iya to the north-east and Lagau to the south-west. To the west, into the Tsey gorge, the summit drops with:

• steep rocky edges
• ice and snow slopes To the Kasar gorge, to the Mos­kvich glacier —
• gentle, but heavily destroyed simple rocky slopes

219. Mos­kvich from the west via couloir and North-Eastern ridge, beyond cat. diff. (G. Bu­kharov, A. Ber­dichev­skiy, B. Dor­ofeev, A. Zak­harov, G. Kuch­kin, I. Smir­nov,

Report

On the first ascent of the national team of Karachay-Cherkessia to the summit of Klych-Kara-Kaya 3578 m via the eastern edge. Category 2B difficulty. Presumably Category 2B difficulty. Ascent on September 11, 2022.

Semenov M. A. — MS team leader Maksimov K. M. experience of 2nd sports category Alpclub — "Gornoe Bezumie" 2023

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

Participants of the ascent