Crimea, Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B (Li­sha­ev Yu. (Fan­tik))

Required equipment:

• a set of quickdraws
• a set of nuts
• a set of cams
• hammers and pitons are desirable Large cams, hexes, as well as small nuts work well! Angarskaya wall. "Kosyaya" route 4B

Zamok — 2. Geniush — Shcherbakov Route

Author: Igor Saveliev (SAVA) Foros Dnepropetrovsk Zamok Route Description "Chapa" ("Chapa" has no relation to Igor Chaplinsky, "sara" means "bolts" in Spanish). Approach the base of the couloir between the peaks Zamok and Mshatka. Ascend 20m up the couloir, on the right, there's a blue inscription (CHAPA max. 7A+). From the road to the start of the route — 5 min. All protection points are marked in blue. It's very easy to navigate, the route is constantly in view. Fig. 1 Route "Chapa" on Zamok peak The first three pitches have relatively solid rock, further on it gets worse, so be careful and cautious. Most loose rocks have been cleared. Many areas have been cleaned of grass and soil. The route was intended to be easier to climb, but it turned out to be more challenging due to the need to anchor to stronger rock. "CHAPA" can be climbed entirely free, but many sections can also be done with artificial aids (ITO), depending on the climbers' skill level. It's recommended to bring various gear:

• profiled sky-hooks

Kilse-Burun — 3

Via the second counterfort of the western part of the massif (a question), 3B (IV, 80 m) (V. Chekanov and V. Kozinog's route, 1973)

The approach to the route from the road begins at the end of the long zigzag of the road. From it, the road further goes along the Kilse-Burun massif to the campsite. On the trail:

• At first, approach a small, separately protruding rock, previously often used for training.
• By going around the rock, move up and to the right along the talus to the base of the second counterfort of the western part of the massif. An additional landmark can be a large rusty spot on the sheer wall in

Kilse-Burun — 17.

Right edge of the central wall part (classic), 4B (V, 45 m)

This is one of the oldest routes in the area and was described in the guidebook by O. Grippa and V. Goncharov "Alps in Crimea", published in 1969. The approach to the route starts left of the campsite. Traverse the talus slope (section R0) to a large solitary pine tree under the wall (R0: 100 m, 30°, unclimbed). On section R0–R1, climb the sheer wall to a small tree. From it, go up and right to a juniper tree (R0–R1: 20 m, 80°, V; 30 m, 75°, IV). There are two variations of the ascent. The first one, described earlier in the mentioned guidebook, goes left through a grotto via a large dihedral, and the second, currently more popular, goes straight up. First, we will describe the older route variation. On section R1–R2, climb 60 m up and left to a grotto via easy rock (R1–R2: 80 m, 60°, II). On section R2–R3, climb 40 m up a wide dihedral. Then, go up and right 20 m (section R3–R4) to the start of the next dihedral (R2–R3: 60 m, 70°, III+; R3–R4: 20 m, 75°, IV). On section R4–R5, climb 40 m up a long dihedral (R4–R5: 40 m, 70°, III). On section R5–R6, climb 20 m up a dihedral (R5–R6: 20 m, 80°, IV). On section R6–R7, traverse left onto broken rocks and climb up and left 20 m onto a ledge with a tree under a reddish cave (R6–R7: 20 m, 65°, III).

Route "Зя­блик" (Golovey, Karpenko) 1978

0­–1: Start from the big juniper: right, up, then right — exit to an inclined grassy ledge, then up to a horizontal ledge. Along the ledge to the right, bypassing boulders, and up — under the wall. Make a station higher up. 55­–60 m, IV 1­–2: Up to the left — to a crack, further up the crack. Make a station on a small shelf, near a small tree. 50 m, V+ 2­–3: Up through cracks, bypass to the left a ruined "belly", and exit to a ledge. 50 m, VI

Kilse-Burun — 13

Up the centre of the rusty wall (Yellow Submarine), 6A (P. Shvets and A. Romanovsky route, 2001)

Cuba — Kaya 6. "Seventh"

Difficulty: 3B V Authors: Lavrinenko A., Shvets Year of route creation: 2009 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 320 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours Route description: Approach from the upper road straight through the bushes to the wall. The start is easy to find — the most logical and monolithic internal corner. R0–R1 60 m. Up left along the corner, protection — friends and pitons, mostly not difficult, but there will be a couple of steep walls. Station on the upper tree. (The most convenient place) IV R1–R2 35 m. Up the corner 15 m, then along its left edge bypass the red hanging rock from the left, and exit up to a tree. Station. IV R2–R3 50 m. Up through a system of cracks, through a small overhang, then up along the cracks, trending right, through a corner with a "cork", exit onto simple rocks. Then move left along large blocks. Station on a ledge. List:

• 10 m V
• 30 m IV
• 10 m II

Ascent Passport

I. Type: Rock climbing II. Region: Crimea, Batiliman III. Summit: Kush-Kaya IV. Route: Via the Southwest wall and Southwest ridge through the "gorge of the bowl" V. Climbing category: 2B VI. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 440 m, length — 600 m, average slope — 47° VII. Protection used: 8 pieces VIII. Duration: 2 hours; descent via trail — 0.5 hours IX. Ascent leader: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich, Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Class: Rock
2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman
3. Peak: Kush-Kaya
4. Route: via South-West ridge (classic)
5. Difficulty category: 2B
6. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 380 m, length — 460 m. Average slope — 56°
7. Pitons used: rock — 12 pcs.
8. Movement time — 2 hours, descent via trail — 0.5 hours.
9. Ascent leader: Lebedev Nikolay Petrovich, 3rd class, participants: Vorobyev Mikhail Yuryevich, badge holder, Feklistov Mikhail Mikhailovich, badge holder.

Climbing Passport

I. Type: Rock climbing 2. Region: Crimea, Batiliman 3. Peak: Kush-Kaya 4. Route: via 10-V wall (through the chimney) 5. Difficulty category: 3A 6. Route description: Height difference – 330 m, length – 400 m. Average steepness – 56° 7. Equipment used: rock pitons – 1 pc., nuts – 6 pcs. 8. Duration: 2.5 hours, descent via trail – 0.5 hours. 9. Climbing leader: Mikhail Yu. Vorobyov; participants: Igor V. Tarasov, Dmitry B. Chebonenko; trainer: Igor K. Kaver. Climb completed on January 13, 1991.