FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING OF SAINT-PETERSBURG, "LETI" ALP CLUB

Report

on Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr (1068 m) via the left part of the right bastion of the eastern wall "Chestnaya devushka" (First ascent was made on April 27, 1993, led by Shumilov O.I.) Balagurin S.O. Khibiny mountain range. Takhtarvumchorr ridge Classification table section: #8.6

1. Kola Peninsula. Khibiny mountain range. Takhtarvumchorr ridge. Classification table section: #8.6
2. Peak name — Mt. Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr 1068 m, route name — via the left part of the right bastion of the eastern wall "Chestnaya devushka".
3. Proposed category: 4B. First ascent
4. Route characteristics: winter — combined, summer — rock.

Route on Vudyavrcorr (1B) via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, 4A ("chestnaya devushka")

View from below: the route line, pitches, and belay stations. The idea to go on this climb during the winter season had been ripening for a long time. The description had been lying in my folder since last year. Back then, the conditions were bad, and we didn't end up doing it. This year, everything was different. I immediately decided that we would go calmly, with processing, over 2 days. The route was well-suited for this:

• up to R9, almost everything is on snow;
• then a cave;
• further, 6.5 ropes — the rock part. Moreover, it was highly motivating that the report was promised to be published in St. Petersburg: there was no need to rack our brains over who to take, with whom to meet, and on which routes — we could work calmly. As we were gathering, adjustments were made: the team composition changed and shrunk, but overall, nothing prevented us from starting the route. On April 5, we climbed the Avalanche Couloir. We examined the route from below and above, took photos. The first impression: there's a lot of snow. But there's no pronounced overhanging snow above this part of the bastion.