3 гребню
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMateAscent record of Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the Western Ridge, grade 4B, first ascent.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.
Route Description: 3 гребню
SSummitMate### Ascent Route to Peak Dostoevsky The ascent to Peak Dostoevsky involves a challenging journey across glaciers and steep ridges. Climbers typically start from the base camp and follow a path that leads to the glacier, where they traverse its icy surface to reach the foot of the peak. The route involves navigating through crevasses and climbing steep ice walls. Upon reaching the ridge, climbers face technically challenging sections that require careful navigation and climbing skills. The ridge traverse is demanding due to exposed terrain and potential rockfall or icefall hazards. Climbers must be well-prepared with appropriate gear and experience to tackle the technical difficulties and altitude challenges of this ascent.
It is difficult, practically impossible, to capture the route profile. The ridge along which the route runs is zigzag-shaped and is blocked from the south by the towers of gendarmes.
Photos taken from below, from the moraine, result in overlapping images. Photographing from Peak Domashny also results in overlapping ridge bends, plus details are not visible due to the large distance. A frontal photo captures only 1–2 nearest ascents; the rest of the ridge is blocked by gendarmes.
Approach Description
From the base camp, bypassing the southern spurs of the peak Dostoevsky to the right, ascend via scree under the southern slopes of peak Dostoevsky (5 hours from the camp). Approach the western ridge via moraine to the first long snow couloir on the left. R0–R1. Ascend the 35° 1000 m snow couloir to a saddle on the western ridge before the 1st gendarme (3 hours from the moraine). The couloir is avalanche-prone; it is recommended to pass it in the morning. Behind the saddle on the ridge is a good place to spend the night in a hollow. R1–R2. Bypass the 1st gendarme to the right. Descend 50 m to a snowy inclined ledge. Rocks with ice formations. Traverse right and upwards to a steep snow couloir. R2–R3. Ascend the couloir to a narrow saddle before the 2nd gendarme. In the narrow part of the couloir is a 15 m ice chute. R3–R4. Ascend the 2nd gendarme directly, snowy rocks. R4–R5. Descend via snowy rocks with top rope on a snowy cornice. R5–R6. Snowy cornice turning into a snowy wall, loose snow on a smooth rock slab.