on the left side, straight up to the rope to the end of the couloir, which ends with a chimney filled with ice. Climbing is extremely cautious, as there are many loose rocks. Above the couloir is a sheer wall, so we traverse to the right through the couloir's throat and exit to its right side. It is necessary to cross the couloir quickly due to the hanging crevice, from which pieces of ice break off and shoot through this couloir. In this section, the belay is piton (4 pitons), movement is along the fixed ropes. Section 56 From the couloir, we move to the rocks, which are steep but heavily dissected. Straight up, we climb one rope to a small ledge, where we can gather everyone. The time is already late, and we still haven't found a suitable platform for the tent. After

Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the West Face, Cat. 4B

The group set out at 9:00 from the assault camp (Amput Pass, approx. 4000 m) for the first ascent of Amshut Peak via the west face. Rounding the steeply dropping walls of Amshut via scree and snow, we reach a saddle from which the route begins. The saddle is lower than the pass level. Here, we set up the 1st control cairn. Section #1. From Cairn #1, we face "ram's foreheads" with a steepness of 45–50°. The 70-meter ascent is initially done with alternate belays, then one rope is fixed as a handrail, and it ends at a ledge before the wall. Two pitons are hammered in. Section #2. From the ledge, we climb 8 meters straight up the wall with a steepness of 80–85°. Then, we move left under the overhanging outer corner into a narrow, long cleft. When transitioning from one wall to another, we're thrown