СВ ребру плеча п. Чапаева

Ascent record of Khan-Tengri peak via NE ridge of Chapayev Peak shoulder, category 5B, made by the team of Rostov regional alpine federation in 1996.

Ascent Passport Class of high-altitude ascents Tian Shan, Tengri Tag ridge Peak Khan Tengri via NE edge of p. Chapayeva's shoulder; Difficulty category — 5B. Elevation gain — 2910 m. Distance 6160 m. Distance of sections with V difficulty category 960 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 40°. Team's travel hours — 18, days — 3.

Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak (7010 m) by the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Chapayev peak, grade 5B.

Passport Class — high-altitude. Tian Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge. Peak Khan Tengri, 7010 m, from S. Inylchek Glacier along the Western ridge via the Northern summit of Peak Chapayev (along the NE edge of Peak Chapayev's shoulder). Complexity category — 5B. Height difference — 2500 m, length — 9000 m, length of sections with 5 and 6 complexity categories — 400 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 30°. 7 rock anchors hammered in, previously hammered anchors used. Team's travel hours — 15.5 hours and days — 3. Overnights: 1st — 5600 m — comfortable in a tent, 2nd — 5800 m — in a snow cave, all lying down. Leader: Bolotov Alexey Vasilyevich — Candidate Master of Sports.