Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical. 2. Ascent region: Central Tien-Shan, Ak-Shyyrak ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 4764 m, p. Tien-Shan, via the north-west ridge. 4. Expected difficulty category: ¾ δ · ∧ C ∼ (∼∼ 504 n.23) 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m; length of sections with 5th difficulty category — none; average steepness — 43°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock ice screw a) for belay 5 23 b) for i.t.o.

Along the destroyed western ridge with several depressions, we reach the corniced ridge (R0–R1), which turns north (R1–R2). Along the sections (R0–R1), (R1–R2), simultaneous protection is used on snow. Further, the ridge turns east, section (R2–R3) to a rocky gendarme. The gendarme (R3–R4) is passed "head-on". Rocks of third and fourth difficulty categories. There is a control cairn on the gendarme. Section (R4–R5) is a descent from the gendarme to the overnight site. Overnight stay on snow, with cornices to the left, requiring increased attention. Entry with an overnight stay in crampons. Section (5–6) is covered in 30 minutes. It is dangerous, especially in poor visibility. There are cornices on the left and a 50 m long bergschrund on the right. The distance between the bergschrund and the cornices is 15 m. Here, alternating protection is used on snow. Section (6–7) is an ascent to the forepeak, 160 m long, with alternating protection. The descent from the forepeak (7–8) is relatively straightforward, 40 m long. Section (8–9) is an ice rise leading to the summit, 140 m long. The cairn is located 4 m below in the rocky ridge coming from the southeast, as the highest point is an ice dome. Descent follows the ascent route.

Table

of the main characteristics of the first ascent route to the Tian-Shan peak via the northwestern ridge, category 3B difficulty The time of departure from the overnight stay location is 8:30. The total number of walking hours per day is 4 hours. The overnight stay conditions are good. Further descent is via the ascent route.