Russian Mountaineering Championship

in the high-altitude class 2018

Report

of the Rostov Region team on the ascent of Pik Pobedy Gl. (7439) from the north via the Abalakov route, 6A category of difficulty

Climbing Passport

1. Region: Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Too range
2. Peak, route: Pik Pobedy Gl. (7439) from the north (V. Abalakov route)

Report

On the Ascent of Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) by the Joint Expedition of the Spartak Society and the Kazakh Alpine Club in July-August 1956

1. Description of the Area, Brief Description of Previous Ascent Attempts, and Expedition Objectives

Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m) is located in the eastern Tian Shan, in the East Kok-Shaal-Tau range, along the state border between the Soviet Union and the Chinese People's Republic. The section of the range where Peak Pobeda is situated stretches latitudinally and represents a vast glaciated massif - a wall about 15 kilometers long, sharply rising above the surrounding mountains. Even the lowest parts of the wall exceed 6.5 km in height. At the foot of the northern slopes of the wall lies the Zvezdochka Glacier, a major tributary of the Inylchek Glacier. The wall rises above the Zvezdochka Glacier throughout its length by 2.5-3 km. The highest point of the massif, Peak Pobeda (7439.3 m), is located in the middle part of the massif. Here, the ridge is elevated 600-700 m above the rest of the range for about 500-600 m, with no significant changes in height along this section. On the northern slope of the wall, a prominent counterfort extends towards the Zvezdochka Glacier. To the east, the massif is bounded by the sharp and deep Chon-Tareng pass. The pass saddle is limited on the side of Peak Pobeda by a local rise in the ridge (about 6900 m), which we will conditionally refer to as the Eastern Peak of Pobeda. To the northeast of the pass lies Peak Voennykh Topografov (6873 m), from which a heavily dissected ridge, Ak-Tau, extends westward.

Federation of Alpineism of the USSR

1970 Alpinism Championship

Report

on the ascent of Peak Pobeda 7439 m via the Northern ridge (Northeastern edge) by the combined team of CS DSO “Spartak” in the category of high-altitude ascents. Leningrad 1970

I. Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

The most southerly and largest ridge of the Soviet Tian Shan is the Kokshaal-Tau ridge, along which the border between the Soviet Union and China runs. The highest section of the ridge, stretching for 115 km, constitutes the massif of Peak Pobeda, the most northerly seven-thousander on Earth (7439 m). To the north of the Chon-Teren pass, the Ak-Tau ridge branches off the Kokshaal-Tau ridge to the northwest, separating the Zvezdochka glacier and the upper reaches of the Inylchek glacier. The northern slopes of Peak Pobeda rise above the Zvezdochka glacier from the Chon-Teren pass to the Diky pass. They represent a grandiose, almost sheer rock wall with alternating belts of dark and light-colored rocks. Only on individual ledges of the ridges and in the less steep parts of the wall can ice accumulate, forming powerful hanging glaciers from which large sections of ice continually break off, crashing down in enormous avalanches.