правому контрофорсу 3 стены

A description of a challenging climbing route with a key section that involves using technical climbing equipment (ITC), and an overnight stay on a comfortable ledge, followed by a summit ascent and descent via the eastern couloir.

Description of the route by sections R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn. R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route. R6–R16: Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge. Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО. Then via walls and "ram's foreheads". Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay. Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion. Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

Ascent to Elbrus peak via the classic route through Priut 11 from west to east. Route description, key points, and necessary preparations.

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Route to Peak Komosomola via SW ridge, description of summit ascent with technical details and recommendations.

4875 m

Ascent to the summit of Semenov-Tian-Shansky (4875 m) via the West face in the Ak-Sai gorge, grade 5B, winter 1994.

Ii a c ii o p t I. Season — winter Tien-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge Semenov-Tian-Shansky Peak (4875 m) via right side of West Face, combined route Category — 5B Height difference: 175 m, length — 1600 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 65° (3700–4300) Pitons hammered in:

Route passport 5B cat. diff. to Semenov-Tian-Shansky peak via West wall, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Tian Shan.

Passport I. Category — technical. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz range, Ak-Sai glacier. Peak Semenova-Tian-Shansky, 4875 m, via the right part of the Western wall. Route 5B category of difficulty, combined. Height difference — 970 m, main part of the route height difference — 565 m, average steepness — 68–70 degrees, Length of sections with 5B–6 category of difficulty — 120 m. Pitons driven: rock blade pitons ice screw 57 0 64 4 IO 0 5 0