С стене
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the climbing route with a detailed analysis of sections and insurance features in different weather conditions.
The route starts from the bergschrund. In winter, the crevices are usually filled with snow and crossing the bergschrund is not particularly difficult. In summer, however, there may be a difference in the walls of the crevice of up to 3–5 m of sheer ice or very difficult firn that is challenging to belay. Section R0–R4:
- Ice slab with a slope of up to 50°.
- Alternating movement.
- Belay using ice screws. Section R3–R3:
- Rock islands covered with ice.
- In summer, due to the thin ice, the rocks may be exposed, so belaying is expected to be done using both ice screws and rock protection (pitons and nuts).
- Due to the specifics of the rock relief, thin rock pitons and small-sized nuts (preferably stoppers) are preferable. Section R4–R5:
Route Description: С стене
SSummitMateDescription of the first ascent of the Alamedin Wall (4550 m) in the Kyrgyz Range of Tian Shan via a Category III-V route.
II A C II O P O T
I. Class — snow and ice 2. Region — Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky ridge, Salk gorge 3. Summit — Alamadinskaya wall (N), 4550 m 4. Category — approximately 5B cat. dif., first ascent 5. Height difference — 700 m, length — 1000 m Length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 880 m. Average steepness — 52° 6. Pitons hammered in:
| rock | bolt | nuts | ice |
|---|
A photograph of the northern wall of Alamedin wall taken from a helicopter in 1989 from a height of 3800 meters.
PHOTO MI. Alamedin wall (C), north wall. Shot from a helicopter — February 1989, distance — 2 km, shooting point ㅅ, height — 3800 m. Lens — Т-43, focal length — 4/40