TALGAR — main peak (5017 m)

8

Ascent to the Main peak of Talgar via the West wall, route 4B cat. difficulty (Fig. 41, 41a). From the Talgar mountaineering camp along the trail upstream along the Middle Talgar gorge to the Edelweiss glade. Turn towards the South Talgar glacier. It takes two hours to reach the glacier tongue. From here, along the right lateral moraine of the glacier, overcoming numerous crevices, there is an exit to a gently sloping (20°) glacier slope covered with small stones. Having ascended along this section of the glacier, exit to the left lateral moraine. Here is a possible overnight stay location. From here, the route begins. The path goes along an ice couloir, expanding in the upper part, with a steepness of 35–40°, and a length of about 450 m. The couloir leads to the ridge of the western counterfort of the South Talgar peak. On the left side, the couloir is bounded by ice-covered rocks, and on the right, it turns into ice walls. The ascent should be started from the left part of the couloir, along the ice slope, sticking to the rocks. Walk in crampons; in the upper part, step cutting is necessary. It takes 2 hours and 30 minutes to reach the ridge. Here is an overnight stay location. On the next day, the path begins with two ice ascents with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of about 500 m. In the upper part of the ascents, there is a small icefall. Walk the entire time in crampons. Crevices are not wide and are easily crossed. In some places, there is burned ice, requiring piton belay and step cutting. After 2–3 hours, there is an exit to an ice ascent, and then, after 15–20 minutes of walking along a descending snow-ice plateau, heading east, approach the base of the West wall of the Main Talgar peak.

Fur­ther mo­ve­ment along a small cou­loir and rocks with an exit to the counter­force. After two hun­dred me­ters, there is an exit to the Main summit of Tal­gar. The des­cent from the summit to the south-east along a snowy ridge to a wide cou­loir, along which the route is com­pleted:

• des­cent to the Kor­zhenevs­ko­go gla­cier
• fur­ther through the Su­rovy saddle to the area of the al­pi­nist camp «Tal­gar» If there is a crust on the gla­cier, the whole des­cent takes up to nine hours.

Rec­om­men­da­ti­ons for clim­bers

1. Num­ber of par­ti­ci­pants - no more than 4 peo­ple.
2. Ini­tial bi­vouac on the mo­raine of the South Tal­gar gla­cier.