желобу СЗ гребня с л. Тогузак
Route Description: желобу СЗ гребня с л. Тогузак
SSummitMateAscent to the top of Muryntau (4539 m) in Trans-Ili Alatau via the north-west ridge from the Toguzak glacier, a route of the 2nd category of complexity.
Muryntau (4539 m)
- Ascent from the Toguzak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
- Traverse Muryntau — Toguzak from the Toguzak glacier. Ascent from the Toguzak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10). The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Toguzak glacier. To the north-west of it:
- Toguzak pass
- Toguzak peak
Route Description: желобу СЗ гребня с л. Тогузак
SSummitMate### Climbing Route Overview Description of the ascent route to the summit via Toguзак Glacier, including equipment recommendations and climbing tactics.
on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy