Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - combined 2. Ascent region - Tian-Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, Middle Talgar gorge 3. Peaks RAPATAK, 4050 m., north-eastern counterfort 4. Presumed difficulty category - 3A. 5. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 750 m.
• length of sections with 5th difficulty category - none
• average steepness - 30

6. Pitons driven:

MAP — DIAGRAM OF THE CLIMBING AREA

Brief description of the approach to the route

The approach to the start of the first ascent route from the Talgar alp camp is along the trail along the Sr. Talgar River to the Shumikhinsky overnight stay, located at the foot of v. Karaulchita (2 h 30 min); then cross to the left (orographic) bank of the river and along the trail approach the "Tekegrad" overnight stay (1 h 15 min). From the "Tekegrad" bivouac, the path goes along the moraine of the South TEU glacier in the SW direction. 400–500 m before the glacier tongue, turn in the southern direction, cross the lateral moraine of the glacier towards the 70-meter tower, which ends the NE buttress of v. Karatash. The approach from "Tekegrad" to the start of the route takes 25–30 min.

Brief explanation for the route table

At the foot of the ice slope, it is necessary to rope up and move vertically upwards to the beginning of the characteristic internal corner, using stones frozen in the ice, sometimes with step cutting. Climbing the inner corner (section R1–R2) is quite difficult:

• rocks are fragile;
• in some places 2–3 m wall;