В гребню с л. Вальтера
Route Description: В гребню с л. Вальтера
Ascent route to Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via traverse of Peak Korov (6372 m) and Peak Hohlova (6701 m) along the Eastern ridge from Walter Glacier, grade 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — high-altitude and technical;
- Ascent area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
- Peaks, their height, ascent route — Traverse of p. Kirova (6372 m) — p. Khokhlova (6701 m) — p. Kommunizma (7495 m) with ascent from Walter Glacier via the East Ridge;
- Expected difficulty category — 5B;
- Route characteristics: height difference — 3400 m, length of sections of 1st difficulty category – 1500 m, 2nd difficulty category – 1900 m, 3rd difficulty category – 6680 m, 4th difficulty category – 2200 m, 5th difficulty category – 120 m, average steepness — 30°;
- Pitons hammered: for creating ITO — none; for belaying — of which rock — 24, ice — 28, bolt — none;
- Number of travel hours — 38;
- Number of nights and their characteristics — 3 nights, lying down;
- Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualification:
Route Description: В гребню с л. Вальтера
Report on the second ascent of Pik Kirova (6500 m) from the north via a 5A route, made by a team led by G. Shpinnev in 1981.
2nd Ascent
Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.
Route Description: В гребню с л. Вальтера
Ascent of Peak Kirova (6371 m) along the eastern ridge from Walter Glacier, grade 5B, climbed by the Voronezh expedition in 1980.
Ascent Passport
- Class of ascents — high-altitude and technical.
- Area of ascent — North-Western Pamir, Peter the First Ridge.
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Kirova, 6371 m, along the Eastern ridge from Walter Glacier.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 5B cat. diff.
- Characteristics of the route: Height difference 6371–4200 = 2171 m, average steepness — 50°, length of sections: R2 — none, R3 — 800 m, R4 — 1000 m, R5 — 700 m, R6 — none.
- Number of pitons driven: for belay: rock — 44