СЗ кф. В гребня, траверс

Mixed6,685 m
SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to Peak Communism via the spur from Walter Glacier, first ascent by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group in 1976, grade 5B.

Ascent

to Peak Kommunizma from Walter Glacier via the spur with an exit to the ridge between Peaks Izvestiy and 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. Protocol No. 422 dated 09.11.1976. Classify the route: traverse of Peak 6700 m — Peak Kommunizma with ascent via the northwest spur and Voykov Ridge, ice and snow. Credit the group with the first ascent.

First Ascent

by the MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group, led by N. Cherny. Peak Kommunizma is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, at the junction of the Peter I and Academy of Sciences ranges. Its northwest slopes descend onto the Pamir Firn Plateau. The plateau drops steeply to the north onto the Walter and Traube glaciers. The northern slopes of Peaks 50th Anniversary of VLKSM (6700 m) and Izvestiy descend onto the first glacier. Two routes to Peak Kommunizma have been established from Walter Glacier: the Borodkin route, which exits onto the plateau, and the Bezzubkin route, which exits onto Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. The MGS SDSO "Burevestnik" group made an ascent of Peak Kommunizma via a new route from Walter Glacier. The route follows a snow and ice spur that leads to the ridge between Peak Izvestiy and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM. From there, the group followed a previously established path via Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM and then along the northeast ridge of Peak Kommunizma to its summit. The descent followed the ascent route down to the saddle between Peak Kommunizma and Peak 50th Anniversary of VLKSM, then the group descended onto the firn plateau and along the "Burevestnik" ridge to Fortambek Glacier. The group departed from the base camp with the following members:

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Report on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the spur from Walter Glacier in 1978, rated 5B difficulty.

  1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
  2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
  3. Peak, 30th by height, climbing route — Peak Communism, 7495 m above sea level, via the counterfort from Walter Glacier, route by N. Chyorny.
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 3495 m, length of category difficulty sections: 5 — 2500 m, category difficulty 6 — 300 m, average steepness — 40°.
  6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 10, ice — 30, bolt — C.
  7. Number of travel hours — 41.
  8. Number of nights and their characteristics — 4 nights on snow in a tent.
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualifications:
    1. Studenin B. A., Master of Sports of International Class, team leader.
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