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SummitMateSSummitMate
May 8, 2025
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Ascent to the summit of Dvuzubka (3757 m) via the North-East wall, grade 5B, climbed by a team of International Class Masters of Sports led by V. Bolyn in 1977.

Ascent Passport 21

  1. Ascent class
  2. Ascent region
  • rock climbing
  • Caucasus, 2–2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass
  1. Peak, its height, and route: Main Dvuzyub (Dvuzubka), ascents
  • 3757 m, via the north-eastern slope through the "зеркало" (mirror)
  1. Proposed category of mountain difficulty — 5B.
  2. Route characteristics
  • height difference — 957 m, including 800 m to Dvuzubka peak, average steepness
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### Ascent Route Description: Amanauz Peak via Northeast Face (Category 5B) Detailed guide for climbing Amanauz Peak through its northeast face, including recommendations and specifics for navigating this challenging Category 5B route.

Route Description

on Mt. Amanauz (Main) via the Northeast Wall, Category 5B difficulty, Bödnik. Western Caucasus from Marukh Pass to Nakhar Pass. From Dombay Square, follow the right side of the Amanauz River along the trail to the "ram's foreheads" and through them to the glacier and then to the "Conical Moraine" of the Amanauz Glacier. Campsite. Route passage:

  • From the conical moraine to the second step of the glacier, which is traversed from the left.
  • Ascend through the steep middle part of the icefall in the direction of Pravda Peak.
  • Upon reaching the level of the lower part of Dvuzyubka's wall, traverse right for 300–400 m under the wall.
  • Return to the initial campsite. From Dombay Square — 4–5 hours.
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Ascent to the summit Main Amanauz via the north-eastern wall through the "mirror", category of difficulty 6.0, made in 1977 by a group of climbers "Burevestnik".

All-Union Council of the DSO Trade Unions Department of Mountaineering Alplager "Dombay"

Caucasus

(2.2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass)

Amanauz Main (Dvuzubka)

3757 m via north-eastern wall through the "mirror"

BODNIK V.N.CMS"Burevestnik"team leader
BYCHEK A.M.CMS"Burevestnik"participants
VERBA A.A.CMS"Burevestnik"participant
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