Continental Southern Patagonian Andes

Report on the ascent to the summit of Noshaq (7,492 m) via the Northwest ridge in 2011, category of complexity 5B.

Championship Class of High-Altitude Ascensions Report On the ascent to the summit of Noshak 7492 m via the Northwest Ridge. 2011 Leader: Chizhik D.V. Participants: Apraksin Denis Shafikov Renat Bakhmurov Yuri Leontiev Valery Gromov Andrey

Climbing team ascent to the summit of Fitz Roy in Patagonia via the South-East face (Franco-Argentine route, category 6B).

Passport Class of winter ascents South America, Andes, Patagonia, Fitz Roy massif Peak — Fitz Roy via the southeast face Route 6B cat. dif. (Franco-Argentine) Route length — 1481 m Length of the wall section of the route — 560 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. dif. — 576 m incl. 6 cat. dif. — 381 m Height difference — 1220 m

### "Compressor Route" on Cerro Torre: Technical Details, Tactical Decisions, and Patagonian Weather Challenges The ascent of Cerro Torre via the "Compressor Route" is a storied adventure marred by controversy and applauded for its technical difficulty. Climbers tackling this route must be prepared for the extreme weather conditions characteristic of Patagonia, alongside the route's notorious technical challenges. #### Technical Details The route involves a mix of ice climbing, rock climbing, and aid climbing, with sections that are highly exposed. Climbers must be adept in a variety of techniques and be prepared for variable conditions that can shift from ice to rock or a combination of both. #### Tactical Decisions Tactical decisions on the "Compressor Route" are heavily influenced by the unpredictable Patagonian weather. Climbers need to be prepared to adapt their plans according to changing conditions, sometimes opting for a more conservative approach to ensure safety. #### Patagonian Weather The weather in Patagonia is known for its unpredictability and severity. Climbers on Cerro Torre must be prepared for high winds, low temperatures, and potential snow or ice storms. Understanding and respecting these conditions is crucial for a successful ascent. #### Conclusion The "Compressor Route" on Cerro Torre is a formidable challenge that requires not only technical skill but also the ability to navigate the complex and dangerous weather patterns of Patagonia. Climbers must be well-prepared and flexible to successfully summit this iconic peak.

Passport Technical class South America, Patagonia Cerro Torre summit via the southeast ridge by the "Compressor" route. Approximate complexity category 6B Route wall section length — 1453 m. Section length from the glacier to the Col of Patience saddle — 630 m. Route length from the glacier to the summit — 2233 m. Length of sections with 6th complexity category — 568 m. Length of sections with drilled holes (not included in point 7) — 465 m.