Bolshaya Marka

Fig. 11

Ascent to Bolshaya Marka peak (3768 m) - Cat. 1B (Fig. 11)

From Dombay plain, take the road to the "Alibek" alpine camp and continue on the trail to "Semidesyatitrekh" pass. The journey from Dombay plain takes 5-6 hours. From the pass, descend north down a steep snowy slope (ensure belaying!), then traverse scree and grassy slopes to reach a meadow in the Kiche-Teberda gorge. Set up a bivouac. The total time from Dombay plain is 8-9 hours. Continue by traversing a grassy slope (under the trigonometric point) upwards to the left, towards the western edge of the ridge. Then, proceed up a large scree slope into a hanging valley bounded by the southwest ridge on the right and the west ridge of Bolshaya Marka peak on the left. A high rock face is visible on the slope of the western ridge. Ascend the slope under the rock face, bypass it on the left, and continue up the slope to the northern buttress of the peak. Traverse scree to reach the col between the peak and a large gendarme. Then:

• proceed right-upwards along a rocky slope (weathered rocks!),
• reach the ridge,
• then traverse ledges to the summit.

Report

on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks.
2. Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.