Baybiche Too

Mountain range4,925.81 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the first ascent of Ak-Jaman peak (4490 m) via the North-Eastern wall, rated as 4A/4B category of complexity.

Report

On the First Ascent of Ak-Jaman Peak (4490 m)

via the North-Eastern Wall, Category 4A/4B

1. Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing area: Inner Tien Shan, Jamantau Ridge
  2. Peak name: Ak-Jaman (4490 m, № 40°54.413′, 74°49.720′ (WGS 84))
  3. Route name: via the North-Eastern wall
  4. Route difficulty category: proposed 4A/4B
  5. Route type: ice climb
  6. Route elevation gain: 490 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 660 m. Average slope: 50°. 11 ice pitches up to 70°, Al2–Al3.
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Report on the first ascent of Kremen peak (4351 m) via the Western ridge, category 4A, in the Djamantau ridge, Inner Tien Shan.

Report

On the First Ascent of Kremen Peak (4351 m)

via the Western Ridge, Category 4A

1. Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing Area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
  2. Peak Name: Kremen (4351 m, N 40°54.604′, E 74°39.295′ (WGS 84))
  3. Route Name: via the Western Ridge
  4. Category of Difficulty: proposed 4A
  5. Route Type: rock climbing
  6. Route Elevation Gain: 540 m (GPS reading). Route Length: 700 m. Average Steepness: 51°. Climbing difficulty mainly III–IV, crux at the 2nd rope VI–/VI (UIAA)
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Report on the first ascent of Chontash Eastern peak (4553 m) via the North route, rated as Category II complexity.

REPORT

On the First Ascent of Chongtash East Peak (4553 m)

from the north, 2B category of difficulty

1. Climbing Passport

  1. Climbing area: Jamantau Ridge, Inner Tien Shan
  2. Peak name: Chongtash East (4553 m, N 40°54.994′, E 74°5.810′ (WGS 84))
  3. Route name: "through the Gates", from the north
  4. Category of difficulty: proposed 2B
  5. Route nature: snow-ice
  6. Route elevation gain: 900 m (according to GPS readings). Route length: 1600 m. Average slope: 30°. Six rope lengths of firn/ice up to 50°, AI1–2.
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