Ai-Petri (Western Peak) Category 3B

From the Host-Bash clearing (250–300 m), go upstream along the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the river, then ascend via a trail in the direction of the western peak of Ai-Petri, veering left and up. 25–30 m to the wall. The route starts four meters to the right of a well-defined chimney and proceeds 15 m up the wall at an angle of 75–85° to an overhanging boulder. Using the inner corner formed by the wall and this boulder, one can exit to a small ledge — a suitable spot for belaying. Next, move right and up through the inner corner, which after 10 m transitions into a chimney that narrows at the top. Exit through it onto a ledge where a pine tree grows

Ai-Petri (western summit). 4A cat.

The route goes to the left of the main couloir separating the western summit from the central massif. Along the inner corner formed by two ledges on the wall, traverse right under an overhanging rock, bypassing it along a narrow vertical slit. After that, inclined platforms begin. The further path diverges:

• The first one goes up steep rocks along the right edge of a narrow couloir turning into a chimney.
• The second one goes along the wall and traverses left into the couloir. Then go another 25 m to a chimney, then to a pine tree, and then another 40 m to the second pine tree on the right. Here, on the saddle, there's a control cairn. From here, go right to a small chimney with a dry pine tree, and then, bypassing a large rock on the left, ascend to a platform and from it to a pine tree,

Aya — 3, 4

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Aya. The wall with a mark of 498.1 m, separating the Kazandere tract and the "Lost World"

"Pourquoi pas?" route, category IV. Streltsov S., Volsky I. — 1986 (Variant I) category III–IV. Streltsov S., Streltsov M. — 2003 (Variant II)

Tactical tips for passing the wall

I. Landing

Both route variants start from the water. In this regard, it is useful to follow the recommendations on landing set out in the descriptions of the "OBANA" route — 2001, "Piranha" — 2002 on the "Arfen" peak — 235.2 m.

• Variant I — landing conditions are simple.
• It is convenient to place station R1 10–12 m above the waterline.

Aiya — 3, 4

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Cape Aiya. The wall with a mark of 498.1 m, separating the Kazань-Dere tract and the "Lost World"

"Pour­quoi pas?" Route, cat. IV. Streltsov S., Volsky I. — 1986 (Variant I) cat. III–IV. Streltsov S., Streltsov M. — 2003 (Variant II)

Tactical Tips for Passing the Wall

I. Landing

Both route variants start from the water. In this regard, it is useful to follow the landing recommendations outlined in the descriptions of the "OBANA" route — 2001, "Piranha" — 2002 on the "Arfen" peak — 235.2 m. Variant I:

• Landing conditions are simple.

(V. Lendel (Uzhgorod), V. Kostrichenko, V. Zasypkin, Kh. Kornys, E. Umanets, V. Klataevsky, A. Larionov (Simferopol), V. Kulyamin (Yalta), 1973) 5B VI A2 535 m (12 pitches). Average passage time 7–9 hours. The route passes through the center of the wall, in its most extensive part. Two vertical cracks, converging in the direction of each other in the middle of the wall, form gates through which the route line passes. Due to the fairly narrow coastal strip under the wall, already starting from the third rope, climbers get the feeling that the route passes directly over the water. The route starts 50 m to the left of a huge slab leaning against the wall. The landmark is a tree growing on a small slab. R0–R1: 50 m. Climb up the inner corner to the slab, traverse left and up along a shelf to the base of the inner corner. Move up the inner corner-chimney under the eave. Climbing is difficult, organizing intermediate protection points is quite challenging, there are three intermediate pitons. Under the eave, move right, then through an overhanging wall via a crack to an inner corner. Move up the inner corner to a belay station on pitons.

• 10 m III
• 30 m VI A1
• 10 m V A1 R1–R2: 30 m. Climb up a crack formed by the slab and the wall. Reach a ledge. Belay station on pitons. 30 m V+. R2–R3: 40 m. Climb up and right on a slab with small sharp holds to a piton, continue moving up the slab, following sparse pitons. The general direction is up and right towards a tree on a ledge. Climbing gradually becomes easier. Belay station on a ledge with two pitons.

Ayya — 1

Author: Streltsov S., Sevastopol

Ayya Cape. The wall with a mark of 394.2 m in the northern closure of the "Lost World" amphitheater

"Assol" Route

5B, V, A3, 220 m. Lyapun A., Streltsov S. — 1986 (variant I) 6A, VI, A3, 230 m. Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Streltsov M. — 2003 (variant II)

Route Description

• The beginning of the route goes along the crest of the counterfors, framing the western border of the Main couloir (Internal corner).
• The crest is convenient for climbing, provided with cracks for pitons.
• The direction of movement is the upper of the two shelves with large (up to 12 m)

Мыс Айя Route "Ворота" (Gates) 5B+ cat.

Author of the description Vladimir Troyanker

Мыс Айя © photo by Alexey Osipov Elevation gain 440 m. Route length 550 m. Average slope 72°. Possibly, this is the longest wall route in Crimea. 14 ropes, climbing is mainly on friction on slabs. The route is completed in a day, however, late in autumn or in unstable weather, an overnight stay can be considered. From the sanatorium, follow a good trail for about 1 km towards мыс Айя (Cape Aya). 100 m before the end of the trail, ascend under the wall. The start of the route is from a small (4 m) flake. From here, upwards and to the right on rocks of 4-5 cat. 2.5 ropes to the "crocodile's head", there is a block of bolts. You can start the route 50 m to the right - along the flake straight up - it's more difficult there. From the block, 30 m up to a small ledge with old pitons (R4). Further up to a shelf with a tree (R5). In the middle of the shelf, there is a crack going up. The right part of the crack is crumbling. From the tree in the left part of the shelf:

• difficult traverse left and up 5 m;
• then along an easy path up to a tree in the left part of the platform under the Gates.

Aya — 13

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­n­en­ko, Odessa Samoded route, cat. 5B, VII-, A2, 480 m. We traditionally met 2005 in Batiliman. This time Sergey Pugachev and I decided to combine business with pleasure and repair the Samoded route on Aya. We did it on January 3-4, 2005, in rather bad weather. Now the route is in good condition:

• There are rappel rings at the belay stations (R1, R2, R3).
• The route becomes significantly easier afterwards.
• All stations are on reliable trees. The team Pugachev - Shvets also started repairing the Kornysy route (left of Vorota), but unfortunately, they didn't have time to finish it. Currently, the route is not passable - on the 5th rope, there is a rotten path with 7 bolts that can be broken by hand. Hopefully, we'll finish it someday. Unfortunately, there is no good photo of the Samoded route, but it's hard to get lost in the lower part: the relief is logical, and the bolts are clearly visible. The upper part is well seen on the photo. I'm not sure if our path in the upper part is the most logical, but it's at least not difficult, and those who want to can look for their own way.

Aiia — 15 g.

A. Lav­ri­nen­ko I also want to give a description of another route on Aiia. I first climbed it in 1993, and last year I repeated it with Sergei Pugachov. It is unknown who the first ascenders were. The route is beautiful and logical, the only downside is that the bolts are old, but still alive, and there are not many of them. After 4 ropes, the route converges with Samoded's route. It starts 50 m to the right. The landmark is a bolt 5 meters above the ground (8-shaped with a titanium ear). "Po serednemu zerkalu" 5B (TD), VI+, A1, 6–7 hours R0–R1:

• Up the slab to the bolt
• Then left up to the next bolt
• Then up, in the direction of a small black streak
• Further up to the right through a series of small ledges