Мыс Айя Route "Ворота" (Gates) 5B+ cat.

Author of the description Vladimir Troyanker

Мыс Айя © photo by Alexey Osipov

Elevation gain 440 m. Route length 550 m. Average slope 72°. Possibly, this is the longest wall route in Crimea. 14 ropes, climbing is mainly on friction on slabs. The route is completed in a day, however, late in autumn or in unstable weather, an overnight stay can be considered.

From the sanatorium, follow a good trail for about 1 km towards мыс Айя (Cape Aya). 100 m before the end of the trail, ascend under the wall. The start of the route is from a small (4 m) flake. From here, upwards and to the right on rocks of 4-5 cat. 2.5 ropes to the "crocodile's head", there is a block of bolts. You can start the route 50 m to the right - along the flake straight up - it's more difficult there.

From the block, 30 m up to a small ledge with old pitons (R4). Further up to a shelf with a tree (R5). In the middle of the shelf, there is a crack going up. The right part of the crack is crumbling.

From the tree in the left part of the shelf:

• difficult traverse left and up 5 m;
• then along an easy path up to a tree in the left part of the platform under the Gates.

From the tree, go 30 m to the center of the Gates to a small ledge near a slab-flake, organize an insurance station R7 here.

From the ledge upwards, through the center of the Gates, there is a reliable, solid crack. As you progress, you will encounter blocks of bolted pitons. Bypass the overhang of the right gate from the left and reach a ledge with a tree. Behind the tree, there is a ledge equipped with pitons for securing a rappel rope during an overnight stay. It's inconvenient to spend the night on this ledge with more than two people.

From the ledge, ascend along the ledge to the left, towards a tree. From the tree, 7-10 m up and to the right - a bolted piton, from here in the same direction another 15 m to a grotto with an inclined platform R9 (possible overnight stay).

From the grotto, traverse right 10 m and up on bolts to a ledge with a block of bolted pitons (R9), these 2 ropes have a strong traverse.

From R9, traverse right 10 m to a wide, grassy ledge that goes up and to the right to the base of a chimney with a tree in its lower part. This is the exit to the "Нос" (Nose) (a counterfort separating two walls). Here, the wall part of the route ends, and the terrain becomes more dissected, with many ledges.

Up the chimney to a platform with a tree 40 m (R12). From here, 3 ropes up to a ledge that leads to the right into the "рыжая чаша" (red bowl) of Aya. Further, on foot, along the wooded slope, exit to the ridge of the yayla and move towards the descent trail from g. Куш-Кая (Kush-Kaya).

Cams: 15 pcs.

Pitons:

thin channels - 5 pcs., thin universal - 5 pcs. Consumable cord - 10 m. Headlamps. Most of the bolts on the route are faded! It would be good to replace them with new ones (a truly Christian deed) 11111111