Eurasia

In autumn 2025, two ice streams formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The first ascent of the right stream (rated 5A in the Russian classification) was made by Aleksandr Parfyonov's team in early 2026. The first ascent of the left stream was made by Konstantin Markevich with Aleksey Pototskiy in the second half of March 2026. Further, according to Aleksey: Last year was very hot in July. And as a result of this circumstance, two new routes formed on the northern wall of Pik Korona. The charm of these routes is that this year or next, such conditions may not happen, and these routes may not exist. But while they are there - we have to climb 😁 And we did. One route was climbed by Parfyonov with a partner in February, and the second one - Kostya Markevich and I last week. Honest 5B and this is the coolest ice in the area. The icicle itself is 170 m of 87-degree lace cascade ice. And before that, there's another 30 meters of A3 ice climbing. The lower part is 450 m of gentle ice at 55-70 degrees. Work on the route

Ice section length: 680 m Ice slope angle: 55–60 degrees 80 m traverse across a snow slope, then a couloir with broken terrain 120 m long, angle 40–50 degrees. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is heavily broken and protection is unreliable. In winter the couloir is filled with snow - deep trail breaking uphill. Then turn left onto rock. Grade III rock 90 m, angle 50–60 degrees. Protection on passive gear, belay stations on ledges. The climbing is not difficult, but delicate, as the terrain is broken. Move from the couloir right to left in the direction of the summit. Descent via rappel bolts to the upper snowfield of the Korona Glacier, below the bergschrund, and then on foot to the Korona hut.

One of the most popular routes to the Corona peak crest wall. It starts from the bergschrund, from which there are about 450 meters of even ice to the ridge. On the penultimate rope of the route, there is a small ice ridge, which is a bit more complicated than the main section of the route. The start of the route is 70-100 meters to the right of the route. In the Russian official classification, both these routes are considered variants of the same route.

The article describes logistics, infrastructure, and seasonality for climbers in Kyrgyzstan's national parks, including information on transportation, accommodation, food, and weather conditions.

Logistics How to Get There By Private Vehicle As of May 2025, entry to the national park is closed to vehicles with internal combustion engines. Entry for electric vehicles remains open and costs 800 som. There is a parking lot at the top, costing 50 som for an unlimited time. By Taxi You need to get to the entrance to the national park: . However, taxi drivers are not very fond of going there, so some minor difficulties may arise. The cost per car is around 600-800 som from the center of Bishkek. By Public Transport In May 2025, a free bus was launched. It starts from T. Usubaliev Square (often referred to as the old central square of Bishkek, near monuments and administrative buildings in the center) — a landmark in the city center. Transport Inside the National Park If you're not using a private vehicle, you need to pay 200 som per person to enter the national park. The number of days spent in the park is unlimited. Payment can be made in cash, by card, or with national QR transfers. Buses run around the clock from the entrance of the national park to the end of the road inside the park. The interval between buses is approximately every 10 minutes during the day and every 30-40 minutes at night.

Video guide to the Schwab route (5A) on Peak Baychechekhey by experienced mountaineer Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide for the Schwab route (5A, rock) on Peak Baychechekhey by Dima Pavlenko.

A description of the 1B mountaineering route to the top of **Ay-Petri** from the **Uzunkol** base, with a detailed analysis of the path and safety recommendations.

Ai-Petri Uzunkol — description of the 1B alpinist route from SK Greta Route description: From the "Uzunkol" base, cross the bridge to the right bank of the Uzunkol river, then downstream along the bank to the third (from the bridge) green couloir. Go up along it to the left — along the stream (no trail) to the uppermost grassy saddle in the first (it's always on the right) rocky ridge. From the base — 2 hours. Through the saddle, enter the neighboring talus cirque of Ai-Petri, cross it, and approach the base of the lateral rocky couloir, which divides the visible part of the summit slope in half. The landmark for the entrance to the couloir is a separate rocky outcrop. To the right of it are "ram's foreheads", to the left — a grassy slope with rocky outcrops. Higher up, the rocks turn into walls of reddish color.

Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) to the first Korona tower by experienced alpinist Dima Pavlenko.

Video guide to the "Мобильных" route (5A) on the first tower of the Crown by Dima Pavlenko.

Description of the combined 2B route to the Ak-Bashi summit via the Ak pass, including key sections, ascent and descent times.

Ak-Bashi from Ak Pass, combined, 2A Route description: From "Trud" campsite ascend snowy talus slopes to the foot of Ak Pass. Reach the pass via talus slope with small ledges. From the pass, follow the ridge left, bypassing the first sentinel on the right. In the first half of summer, when the ledges are covered with snow, the sentinel is ascended "head-on" along its crest. Then, via ledges right of the ridge, reach its snowy section. Ascend 400-meter snowy ridge to a saddle before the first summit. The summit is ascended via broken rocks. Descend from the summit into a gap along the right side of the ridge (loose rocks!). From here, via talus gully and broken ridge, ascend the main summit of Ak-Bashi. 6 hours from the campsite. Descent from the summit via the ascent route to the campsite takes 3 hours. Departure time from the campsite should be no later than 5:00; Ascending to Lozhny Ak Pass is not recommended as snow slabs are possible on the slope at the beginning of summer, and a steep glacier becomes exposed by the pass in autumn.

Report on the ascent of Peak NPI (3423 m) via the western ridge, describing a Category 1B complexity route and the approaches to it.

Report on the ascent to the summit 3423 m (peak NPI) via the western ridge from Otryog pass, presumably category 1B, first ascent Ascent Passport Region: Western Caucasus, Aксаут region, Bolshaya Marka valley, section 2.2 of the classifier of routes to mountain peaks. Summit: 3423 m (peak NPI), via the western ridge. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent. Route type: rock. Height difference: 150 m (total – 650 m) Route length (technical part): 250 m. Length of sections with category III difficulty: 100 m.