Brno

Description of the route to the North summit of Pik Brno from the "Bezengi" alpine camp with recommendations and necessary equipment.

Descending from the North ridge of peak Brno. After narrowing of the couloir - transition to its right side and up. From the place of couloir bifurcation - ascent via its right branch, then to the right and via easy rocks to the Central counterfort. From the trail - 2–3 hours. Via medium difficulty rocks (in rope teams!) on the left side of the counterfort: 200 m upwards, then transition to its right side, via a snowslope ascent towards the wall of the North ridge. From the couloir - 2–3 hours. Via steep medium difficulty rocks: 45–50 m straight up,

Ascent to Mount Everest via the Southeast Ridge, a description of the challenging route, and key stages of the climb.

35th category To the ridge Sevchenko, B. Kozlov, E. Mikhailov, V. Cherepov (Bezengi) To Brno, view from Ukju bivouac. The group's path is shown with a dotted line. 1 — the first gendarme. 2 — Misses-Tau. 4 — Salynan-bashi. 5 — Shaurtu. 6 — Tyutyurgu.

Ascent to Peak Brno via the South Ridge, category 1B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route from the alpine camp to the summit and the descent back.

Brno peak via the South Ridge, 1B. From the alp camp along the left-bank trail of Mizhirgi gorge (1.5 hrs), across the boulder-strewn glacier (20–30 min) and through the "pocket" between the slopes of Brno and the left-bank moraine (30 min) to where the glacier turns west (Cheget-Mizhirgi). Bypassing the base of the South-East ridge of Brno peak, up the grassy slope and along the trail beside the stream into the moraine "pocket" of the glacier flowing from the North Ridge of Misses-Tau. Traverse the icefall on the right via the talus shelves on the South slope of Brno, emerging onto the plateau; 2–2.5 hrs from the clearing. From the plateau, ascend the talus South slopes of Brno peak, gradually bearing left onto the South Ridge and then along the ridge. The ascent to the summit along the rocky ridge (in rope teams) takes 2–3 hrs from the plateau. The descent via the ascent route takes 3.5–4 hrs. Hazards: rockfall hazard on the shelves when traversing the icefall.