Zapadnaya Jangi

126. Jangitau Main via South Face (combined route, G. Kartvelishvili, 5B cat. diff., fig. 20, 22). From the bivouac on the top of the Central Rocky Island of the Southwest Wall "Kunal" of Jangitau massif (route 125), turn left and along the left side of the broken oblique glacier of the South Face of Jangitau, approach the South Ridge of Jangitau Main. Ascent:

• Steep snow-covered rocks or a narrow ice-snow gully
• Ascend 70–80 m
• Reach the South Ridge Here, turn right and along steep snow-covered slopes of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the bastion wall. Bypass the bastion from the left and exit to the South Ridge behind it. Further, ascend steep rocks above medium difficulty on the South Ridge with challenging walls. After passing the scree, ascend to the summit of Jangitau Main via an ice-snow slope. 8 hours from the bivouac Fig. 22. From Shkhara Western to Lyalver and Tetnuldi

"Main Dzhangitau via the North-East buttress — category 5A" (Schwarzgruber, A. Larin, Peringer, Taper — 23 July 1935; N. Chekmarev and G. Skornyakov — 23 August 1936; Fig. 39). From Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left-bank moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Missekosha hut. From the hut, on the south side of the meadow, follow the trail down, across the meadow with graves of climbers who perished in the Bezengi area, and descend to the Bezengi Glacier. Traverse the glacier, keeping to its left side, up and past minor icefalls and crevasses near the left bank, and then up the center-right of the glacier to its fork into left (East) and right (North-West) branches. Under the icefall of the East branch, turn left under the talus and grassy ascent of the left-bank moraine. Follow the trail right of the stream that flows from the trough between the moraine and the slopes of Pik Semenovsky down to the main Bezengi Glacier, and ascend to the moraine. Camp on the moraine. From Bezengi alpine camp — 3–4 hours. From the camp (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the right side of the base of the North-East buttress of Main Dzhangitau. From the glacier, ascend the avalanche debris (avalanches!) between two rocky outcrops, through a bergschrund and along a gully, and then up a snowy slope to beneath the main rocky ascent of the North-East buttress. Bypass it via a snowy ascent on the right (avalanches! rockfall! icefall!) and exit onto an ice ledge (pitons!). From initial camp — 3–4 hours. From here:

• left and up rocky terrain of medium difficulty and an ice-snow slope (pitons!) — ascent onto the North-East buttress;
• from there, right and 80–100 m up simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the buttress (“live” rocks! pitons!), small slabs are bypassed via snow-ice slopes on the right;
• then, up a snowy slope — ascent onto a horizontal snowy ridge;