Мира

7. Traversing the Kostan-krest ridge from Pik Mira to Tютюнбаши with an ascent to Pik Mira via the Northern counterfort - 4B category of difficulty (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, and V. Shutov - July 22-24, 1961; Fig. 36). The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to Pik Mira is described in route 106. From Pik Mira, descend west along a 150-180-meter sharp snowy ridge (cornices!) and 80-meter steep rocks (sporting descent) to the saddle between Pik Mira and Truda. From the saddle, traverse 200-250 meters along a heavily jagged rocky-snowy ridge (cornices!) with 3-5-meter rocky and small snowy gendarmes, which are overcome along the ridge. After a 7-10-meter drop, ascend along a sharp snowy ridge, then along a slope that transitions into a 60-80-meter sharp snowy ridge with small rocky outcrops over 150-200 meters. Continue along rocks of medium difficulty and a snowy ridge to ascend to Pik Truda. From Pik Truda:

• descend 25-30 meters along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then ascend to a small gendarme,
• from it, make a 40-meter sporting descent to a saddle. Further:
• traverse along rocks of medium difficulty with many small gendarmes, which are bypassed along shelves or overcome directly along 2-5-meter walls and 35-meter slabs (hook!) - descend into a drop. In the drop - a bivouac. From the Truda pass - 10-12 hours. From the drop:

P 22.03.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Mira (4400 m) via the North Counterfort - Category III difficulty. The starting point of the route can be found in the description for Gerta-bashi peak from Ullu-Auz glacier via Category 1B route. From the overnight stay in the Trud pass hollow:

• to the base of the North Counterfort of Peak Mira;
• from the plateau through the bergschrund and 30-35 m up the ice-snow slope to the start of the rocks;
• 30-40 m up the cleft to exit onto the left side of the ridge;
• further, 30-35 m up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the first rocky ascent;
• 25-30 m up the snowy ridge, bypassing the rocky headland on the right, and up the snowy slope to below the second rocky ascent;
• up rocks of moderate difficulty to reach the sharp snowy ridge, with rocky outcrops in its middle and end sections suitable for belaying;
• the snowy ridge gives way to a steep icy slope, with rocky outcrops on the left;

103. Traverse of the Koshtan-Krest ridge from the peak of Kankashev to Gerty-Bashi with ascent to the peak Kankashev via the Eastern ridge — 5A cat. diff. (A. Naumov, E. Varfolomeev, I. Kudinov, E. Sokolovsky, V. Shutin, V. Shutov — July 16–21, 1961; fig. 34, 35). The path from the alp camp "Bezengi" to the Eastern summit of peak Kankashev see in description 102. From the Eastern summit:

• descend 60 m down simple monolithic rocks to the snowy ridge in the failure. From the failure:
• ascend simple destroyed rocks of the ridge to the Western summit of peak Kankashev. From the Western summit:
• descend to the west first over simple rocks,
• then by sports descents over slabs and steep rocks of medium difficulty to a simple snowy ridge. Further: