Митникова

Peak
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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The account of the first ascent of the Ptysh-Juguturlyuchat traverse by a group of climbers in 1946, including route details and technical information.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ① Class. 5А+1 protocol No. 3 dated 22/XI–46 123 TOURIST CLUB READING ROOM No. 797

RECORD TRAVERSE

PTYSH—DJUGUTURLUCHAT

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Ascent to Mitnikov Peak via the Eastern Edge, complexity category 3B, route description, and recommendations for climbers.

Fig. 33

8. Ascent to Mitnikov Peak (3700 m) via the Eastern Ridge — Cat. 3B (Fig. 33)

From Dombayskaya Polyana, follow the trail, then cross the Dombay River via a ford, and ascend along grassy slopes, scree, and rocky outcrops on the left side of the Inye Glacier (in rope connections on the glacier!) to a snow plateau. Continue:

  • Left — ascend to the col between Maly Inye Peak (Zoloto Peak) and the spur of the Eastern summit of Jughuturuchat.
  • Cross the col and exit onto the Eastern Jughuturuchat Glacier (the glacier is avalanche-prone,
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