137. DzhorashTy-Kurshogan Northern peak via North-Eastern ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 14, 15). The path from the "Chegem" tourist base (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at Tyutyurgy pass is described in route 138, and to the Kopy pass - in route 135. From the initial bivouac, descend to the Bulungu glacier and ascend on the right side of its Southern branch towards the saddle of the North-Eastern ridge of DzhorashTy-Kurshogan peak. From the glacier, having crossed the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend a steep 60-70-meter snowy slope to the saddle (cornice) of the North-Eastern ridge. On the saddle, turn right and follow the straightforward snow-covered North-Eastern ridge, then ascend a steep 100-120-meter snowy slope (cornices, protection) of the North-Eastern ridge to reach the Zub gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the steep ice-snow slope on the right (protection). Continue on the straightforward, ruined, snow-covered, rocky North-Eastern ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of DzhorashTy-Kurshogan Northern peak. 5-6 hours from the initial bivouac.

Jorashy - Kurshogan North - South

Fig. 15

138. Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan Se­ver­na­ya (North peak) via North­west ridge (combined route, 3A category, fig. 14, 15). From “Che­gem” tourist base (4-8 people group) follow the forest trail on the left bank of Gara­auz­su river upstream. After crossing Tyu­tyur­gu river, turn left and move up, first across alpine meadows and then across moraines along the right and then left bank of Tyu­tyur­gu river till reaching the tongue of Tyu­tyur­gu glacier. Move to the glacier and go along its left side (closed crevasses), bypass numerous crevasses and two icefalls from the left, ascend to the upper cirque of the glacier. In the cirque, turn left and approach the middle of the three snow couloirs descending from the Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Ascend via simple snow and then scree couloir to the scree col of Tyu­tyur­gu pass. Make a bivouac on the col. 4-5 hours from “Che­gem” tourist base. The path to Se­ver­na­ya (North) branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier via Ko­ru pass is described in route 135. Descend from Tyu­tyur­gu pass to the South branch of Bu­lun­gu glacier, turn right and ascend along the left slopes of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak. Having passed two gendarmes, turn right. Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend a steep snow slope to the col (cornice) of Northwest ridge of Dzhora­sh­ty-Kur­sh­o­gan peak, to the left of a small sharp gendarme. On the col, turn left and ascend simple, destroyed, snow-covered rocks along Northwest ridge, passing I and II gendarmes. Further, ascend simple snow Northwest ridge (cornices), then a wide ice-snow slope to reach a snow dome. From the dome, ascend a simple, gently sloping snow Northwest ridge to approach the rocky ascent to West shoulder. Ascend simple, inclined, destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the ascent (protection):

• 80-100 m ascent to West shoulder.

Fig. 15

Description of the ascent route to Jorashy-Kurshagan (South) 4286 m — 3A category of difficulty.

From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the Bezengi glacier to a sharp drop in the high right-bank (along the route) moraine. Climb up (to its lowering) along the talus of the couloir, and then up to the right along the Grassy inclined ledge (1–1.5 hours) to the ridge, from which a stream flowing from the Jorashy cirque is visible. Along the ridge, then along the rocks and talus on the right (along the route) side of the stream — exit to the Jorashy cirque. The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the exit to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. In the central part of the cirque, a narrow winding couloir is clearly visible, which leads to the Jorashy pass. In the upper part of the couloir, on the right, there is a large plug-slab, overcoming which with insurance through the ledges — exit to the pass (2 hours from the cirque). Overnight stay at the pass. (The path from the pass goes straight along the ridge!) in the direction of the summit. The sequence of passing the sections of the route:

• The first gendarme is passed head-on.
• The second one with an overhanging cornice is bypassed on the right, with an exit to the ridge behind the top of the gendarme.
• The key section of the route is a 30-meter-high wall, which is passed on the right side of the ridge.
• Further along the rocks of medium difficulty to the third gendarme, which is overcome on the left along the route (2 ropes) with an exit to its top in the upper part.
• Another rope along the ridge leads to a site under the next gendarme.